g
Printer Friendly Version

editor   Ann-Margaret Holden
BellaOnline's Costuming Editor
 

What Did Pilgrims Really Wear - Part ll Women's Clothing

The clothing that woman wore were not as different from the men as one might expect.

Since it would take time for flax to grow and no sheep were brought over on the Mayflower the Pilgrims clothing was at a premium. As with the men’s clothing the probate inventories tells us about the color and type of clothes pilgrim women wore. Desire Howland was the daughter of John Howland had a green apron as well as a white apron. She also had red stockings and a black cloak in her inventory. Mary Ring had two violets, and a mingled color waistcoats. She had two white aprons, but also had three blue and one black aprons. She had both white and blue stockings. The surprise to most people is that Mary, like many pilgrim women had a violet and a red slip.

Closest to her body women wore a shift as did the men but her shift tied in the front instead of the back. The shift was made of linen had short sleeves and a collar

Thread knitted stocking were replacing the tailored stocking but tailored stocking were still used. The most common were knit of silk or wool or linen in bright colors of red, blue, gray, green, and off white. Like the men women's stockings were held up with garters that were made of ribbon or fabric.

Petticoats were used for warmth and to protect the skin as well as to fill out the garments. Petticoats were ankle length cartridge pleated to a waist band and were made of linen and wool. The colors were the same as used in skirts. Remember the probate records showed that Mary Ring owned a red and a violet slip

Dresses were either one piece or two. Both consisted of a bodice and skirt. A one piece typically would button or lace downs the back. The bodice of both would slope to a deep V in the front and was stiffly boned or busked. The bodice had long sleeves and sometimes these sleeves were detach table and tied on either with the same fabric or ribbons. The skirts were full, and usually cartridge pleated. The skirt and bodice were from the same fabric which was light weight wool or sturdy linen. The color of the skirts and bodices were either the same color or different colors. Colors for dresses were red. Greens, blues, violets, grays, browns, red-browns, and reds

The waistcoat is a vest which may or may not have sleeves and was worn under the doublet when it was cold or alone when a doublet was too warm. Many of the waistcoats were red.

The ladies doublet was a close fitted and probably boned. Doublets buttoned down the front, had stand up collars. The shoulders of most doublets were decorated with braids or padded or tabbed embellishments. The fronts of the doublet dipped deeply at the center front and rounded to the waist at the sides. Sometimes a skirt or flounce was added to the bottom of the doublet.

Lace collars and cuffs were very common for special occasions for both men and woman. A ruff or a falling ruff was usually made of thin transparent linen or lawn. The falling ruff was either edged with lace or left plain. Cuffs were also made of thin linen and trimmed with lace

On special occasions women would wear a ruff, falling ruff, or a lace color and lace cuffs. While both men and woman wore lace on their collars, women's collars were also beautifully decorated with tone on tone embroidery. Cuff were made of the same fabric and the embroidery matched or coordinated with that of the collars. This was one place that woman could show off their talents.

One requirement for woman was that they always keep their head covered. They always wore their hair pulled up and back with a coif or a biggin over their hair. The coif and the biggin are simple bonnets that helped to keep the hair clean. In the summer straw hats were worn to shade their skin from the sun (this is a time that the fair the skin the prettier). Floppy felts were worn in the winter. And hats of beaver were worn by both men and women. The straw, beaver and felt hats were worn over their bonnets.

Because clothing was such at a premium aprons were worn any time there was work being to be done. Aprons with or without bibs were general made of linen which was a sturdy fabric and made in a variety of colors as well as white.

Jewelry was not mentioned, but was found in the few paintings of pilgriams, that exist. Examples: Elizabeth Paddy Wensley is proably wearing a string of beads. Elizabeth Paddy Wensley appears to be wearing a gold necklace in her portrat. From these beaded necklaces or chains a common practice was to wear a medalion. One reference Found was a pilgrims cross and the instructions to make your own can be found at http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art25750.asp

Capes with hoods were worn in the winter to protect from the cold. Ladies capes were semi-circular cut and most had collars or hoods and were made of wool and were in the colors of red or violet.

Woman wore gloves made of wool as well as leather gauntlets. Women also used muffs that were made of fur or wool and very thickly quilted.

As with the men thread knitted stocking were replacing the tailored stocking but tailored stocking were still used.

Shoes too were the same styles as the men’s being low cut with rounded toes. The heels were low cut and the tonge of the shoe was high but folded back and tied with a ribbon or a rosette Wedding shoes were made of soft leather such as pig skin or silk and were decorated with silk embroidery.

Holiday Costumes

Costuming Site @ BellaOnline
View This Article in Regular Layout

Content copyright © 2008 by Karen Blakeney. All rights reserved.
This content was written by Karen Blakeney. If you wish to use this content in any manner, you need written permission. Contact Ann-Margaret Holden for details.



| About BellaOnline | Privacy Policy | Advertising | Become an Editor |
Website copyright © 2008 Minerva WebWorks LLC. All rights reserved.


BellaOnline Editor