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Needleart 1921 edging #3

"Tatted Edges and Insertions for Underwear"

These patterns are from the "Needleart" magazine Vol.8 #3 published in 1921 on page 17 and continued on page 68. These pages were given to me but I know little else about this publication. I would welcome any notes that other tatters may have to share. There are seven patterns of varying degrees of difficulties. The designs are intended for underwear but today's fashions would also be enhanced on outer wear as well.

The patterns previously shared from this page were #1, #2, #4 and #6. In #3 the insertion consists of two mirror image sides. Each side could be tatted and used separately. Used as an insertion or belt, the 4 trefoil motif alternates with two rings which are joined across side to side and are not seen in the photo. They are hidden under the ribbon.
The length of the joining picots plays a prominent part in creating the dense fabric of the trefoil motif. The middle picot on the middle ring of the trefoil may be a little bit longer so that all the other middle rings may be joined neatly and tightly to it. And make the picot joining the side rings tight also so long as it does not strain the thread.

Avoid gapsosis between the chain thread and the last ring of each trefoil by folding it back over the second ring and setting the first ds of the chain tightly, chain on 1-2 ds and then fold chain back into proper position.

Needleart magazine Vol.8 #3 published in 1921 on page 17 edging 3

Abbreviations:
R = ring
CH = chain
- or p = picot
+ = join
ds = double stitch
rw = reverse work
dnrw = do not reverse work
lppr = lst picot previous ring
clr = close ring
header/footer = a line of tatting used to attach lace to cloth

Note that the double stitch count is marked with colored numbers. Blue for chains and Red for rings. The order of work begins with the ring on the far left of the photo. This is a right-facing ring, then a short chain followed by the right facing trefoil and a long chain. The trefoil is repeated facing left followed by the short chain and the left facing ring. That completes one repeat.

Using two shuttles or one needle and ball thread, begin with the ring marked start.
*R 3 - 4 - 4 - 3 clr dnrw leave no space.
R 3 + (join last p of previous ring or lppr) 4 - (this is the picot which may be a little longer for later joins) 4 - 3 clr dnrw leave no space.
R 3 + (lppr) 4 - 4 - 3 clr rw.
CH (2 - ) x 7, 2 rw
R 3 - 4 + (join to middle picot of last ring)4 - 3 clr dnrw leave no space.
R 3 + (join last p of previous ring or lppr) 4 + (join to middle picot of previous trefoil) 4 - 3 clr dnrw leave no space.
R 3 + (lppr) 4 - 4 - 3 clr rw.
CH 2 - 2 - 2 rw R 3 - 4 - 4 - 3 clr rw CH 2 - 2 - 2 rw This complete one motif on one side. Repeat from *

To end the line you may tat up to CH J and continue to the chain about 14 ds. RW and begin the matching chains on the new side. Join the single rings across the opening and join both of the new trefoils to the matching two on the other side.

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