"Tatted Edges and Insertions for Underwear"
These patterns are from the "Needleart" magazine Vol.8 #3 published in 1921 on page 17 and continued on page 68. These pages were given to me but I know little else about this publication. I would welcome any notes that other tatters may have to share. There are seven patterns of varying degrees of difficulties. The designs are intended for underwear but today's fashions would also be enhanced on outer wear as well.
The previous patterns shared from this page were #1, #2, #3 , #4 and #6. Edging 5 has both picots used for decoration and construction. This pattern as shown used as an insertion with an elongated picots and ribbon inserted over these picots and under the oval "belt loop" motif.
Abbreviations:
R = ring
CH = chain
- or p = picot
+ = join
ds = double stitch
rw = reverse work
clr = close ring
picot gauge = cut a piece of plastic or cardboard the necessary width to measure the long picot needed
header/footer = a line of tatting used to attach lace to cloth
Note that the double stitch count is marked with colored numbers. Blue for chains and Red for rings. Letters show the order of work.
The pattern for both the header and footer row is the same. Make the oval motifs first and join the sides to it as you tat them. The elongated picot over which the ribbon lays may be adjusted in width if used as a belt. It means that an extra ring and chain set may be needed in the oval motif to account for the extra width. Just insert it between rings E and G. Be certain to measure accurately and use the picot gauge for the long picot.
Prepare a shuttle and ball or two shuttles; one needle and ball. (Consider two colors.)
Oval motif:
*R 6 - 6 - 6 - 6 - 6 clr rw
CH 2 - 4 - 2 + (join to the last p of previous ring) 10 rw
R 2 + (join to next picot of same ring) 3 - 3 - 2 clr rw
CH 5 rw
R 2 + (join to the last p of previous ring) 3 - 3 - 2 clr rw
CH 5
R 2 + (join to the last p of previous ring) 3 - 3 - 2 clr rw
CH 10 - XX (drop picot) 2 - 4 - 2 rw
*Repeat for opposite side.
XX = The Down Picot
The down picot or inward facing picot may be a loop of the core thread held out for later joining. You can use a paper clip, safety pin or even a loop of thread to create the space to which the chain joins later. (This is the same method used to make a self-closing mock ring.)
Or, you may make a regular picot,then fold it downward and hold steady as you tat over it to hold it in position.
Header edgings:
Two small rings will attach to the end chain of each oval motif. Then 3 rings followed all joined together and 2 of them attach to the oval motif also. Then next two small rings attach to the next oval motif etc.
*R 3 - 3 + (join to picot on chain closest to Ring A) 3 - clr rw
CH 4 - 2 - 4 rw
R 3 + (join to the last p of previous ring) 3 + (join to picot on chain to the right of Ring A) 3 - 3 clr rw
CH 4 - 2 - 4 rw
R 2 + (join to the last p of previous ring) 6 + (join to next picot of chain on the oval motif 8 - 2 - 2 clr rw
CH 4 - 2 - 4 rw
R 2 + (join to the last p of previous ring) 2 + (join to the penultimate p of previous ring) 6 - (3" picot, measure carefully) 6 - 2 - 2 clr rw
CH 4 - 2 - 4 rw
R 2 + (join to the last p of previous ring) 2 + (join to the penultimate p of previous ring) 8 + (join to the adjacent picot on the next oval motif) 6 - 2 clr rw
CH 4 - 2 - 4 rw
Repeat from *for length needed and tat the opposite edge in the same manner joining to the long picot on the first side.
The tatting is easy just watch the joins on the headers. And if ever there was a place for adding bling, this is it! Beads everywhere and focal beads in those larger ovals.
