This dainty collar is from "The Young Englishwoman" possibly published in 1876. This pattern is listed on pg. 233. It is a rather old pattern and the directions are written in old-fashioned tatting terms. I have only 8 pages of the booklet and there is no date on it, unfortunately. Previous patterns 174 and 176 have been identified as from "La Mode Illustrée" 1872 by Edwige Renaudin.
The pattern consists of many Josephine Knots/Rings (JK) attached to the inner row to which a header strip is attached last. There is a large ring with 11 picots to which the fourth JK attaches to picot #6 just off center to the midpoint of the ring. The second and third rows also have multipicoted rings alternating with chains and a line of JK and small rings. The end of row 4 continues around the curve of the front of the collar joining to a second row chain and ring then continuing further joining between the third and fourth JK of row 1.
Inner row: One shuttle. *R 1 (- 2) x 10, - 1 clr rw.
JK = R 6 x half-stitches clr. Repeat from JK 3 more times.
Join the thread to the 6th picot of large ring. RW
Repeat from * for length desired.
Note: The illustration does not match the written directions for row 2. This is my understanding of it. Row 2: Attach thread to the base of initial ring row 1.
Tat JK 2 x rw; R 4 - 4 clr rw.
JK rw; R 4 + (join to the #6 picot between two large rings of row 1) 4 clr rw
*JK; R 4 - 4 clr rw; JK rw R 4 + (join to the #6 picot between two large rings of row 1) 4 clr rw
Repeat to the end.
Row 3: This chain floats until the header is made. Put a pin on the end for balance. CH 2 (- 2) x 7, - 2 - 1 rw
R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 + (join to JK of row 1) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 clr
R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 + (join to next JK or row 1) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 clr rw
CH 1 + (join to last picot of first chain) 2 ( - 1 ) x 6, - 2 - 3
R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 + (join to center picot of previous ring) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 clr rw (This is the ring at the bottom of the collar making the curve possible)
CH 2 (- 2) x 7, - 2 - 1 rw
R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 + (join between two JK above) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 clr
R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 + (join to next small ring above) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 clr rw
Continue to tat the chains alternating with the back to back rings which join to the small ring of previous row.
Row 4: Tat the JK rings and small rings first.
Alternate small rings, R 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 clr rw with two JK rings, R 6 x half-stitches clr, Join to chain of row 3, 2 JK, small ring.
Row 5: Large rings: R 2 (- 2) x 5, + (join to JK attached to row 3), 2 (- 2) x 5. clr rw. CH 2 (- 2) x 4, 2, + (join to small ring above), 2 (- 2 ) x 3, 2, RW
Repeat as needed. Add a header or ribbons to tie.
