As an American, "ANZAC Day" originally meant very little to me. I could recall something about the ANZAC forces from history classes covering World War I, and so knew it had to be some kind of military memorial holiday, much like Veteran's Day here in the States. But the significance of who the ANZACs were, or how so many of them had died, had never been brought home in a meaningful way.
Until the year I went to Turkey.
Some of you may be wondering, like I did once long ago, what Turkey has to do with ANZAC Day, or why I'm talking about Turkey on a site dedicated to Australia. But give me a moment, while I paint a picture.
We had recently left Istanbul on our way south to the famous ruins of Troy and Ephesus and others, heading towards Cannakale. As we needed to cross the strait, our guide took us on a cruise... to see the cliffs of Gallipoli. And as we came up those high, steep cliffs, our guide then told us the story of the ANZAC soldiers on that fateful day of April 15, 1915.
The ANZAC troops - the name given to the mainly-volunteer units from Australia and New Zealand by the British High Command - were based in Egypt at the time, and so were a natural choice to send as an initial invasion force into Turkey. They were to be joined by British soldiers landing at the pennisula head and fighting their way inland; the ANZACs were to fight their way up from the beach near Gallipolo after moonset and join them.
Simple in strategy, but it turned out to be one of the worst blunders in military history. The ANZAC soldiers weren't released in the correct location, and found themselves facing cliffs instead of beach. Furthermore, the Turks were already in position with defenses prepared.
That didn't mean the ANZACs turned around; quite the contrary. Thousands died that day as they forced their way up the cliffs. But forced their way up they did, and held their ground.
Though ultimately the Allied forces retreated and lost the campaign in Turkey, the bravery of the ANZAC soldiers can not be denied - they persevered where many thought they would be lost. Even Kemal Ataturk, ruler of Turkey at the time, acknowledged this, and left a touching memorial for the fallen soliders in Gallipoli:
"Those heroes who shed their blood and lost their lives, you are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side in this country of ours. You, the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries wipe away your tears, your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they become our sons as well."
I think that, too, is what touched me so deeply: here in the midst of a terrible war, fallen soldiers were given honor and peace by their enemy.
After our cruise, our guide took us to Gallipoli, to the war memorial there, and to the quiet, solemn graves. I will never forget standing on that shore, looking out on row and row of white graves, reading the inscriptions. Christians and Moslems buried side by side, Turkish soldiers among the ANZAC and British, all sons together. It was a cool day, with a quiet breeze coming off the water. There were some flowers in bloom, and the tree branches swaying. It was all-together too beautiful and peaceful for all the violence that had once been there.
See, the thing is, I hadn't expected to see any war memorials on my trip to Turkey, and so when I came across them, I wasn't prepared. Perhaps that is partly why they stuck so soundly in my memory, and why - though I am American - you say "ANZAC Day" and I am suddenly taken again to those cliffs, to that quiet beach and its simple white tombstones, and left again with that profound sense of sadness and respect for the young men who died there.
For Australians, they have never forgotten this day. It was, in many ways, the end of innocence for the country, who never before had sent so many of their young men to fight - and so many of them never returned home.
Thus, every year, on April 25, the entire country celebrates ANZAC Day. While the holiday is in truth about the ANZAC soliders, it also commemorates all veterans, from World War II, Vietnam, Korea, the Gulf War, and other engagements the Australians have since been involved in, often at the side of their American or British allies.
And it is truly a holiday - most of the country shuts down to honor the Veterans, most everything is closed. There are parades and dawn services at the War Memorials (there is an ANZAC memorial in most major cities), with services broadcast on the television as well.
It is a day to remember and honor the fallen - the soldiers, the women who served, the families left behind.
ANZAC Day. "Lest We Forget."

