“Yoho” is a Cree word used to express awe. Established in 1886, Yoho National Park is a treasure trove of historical and scenic wonders. Flanking the western slopes of the Canadian Rocky Mountains in British Columbia, the park is filled with craggy peaks, glaciers and tumbling waterfalls. One of its most impressive cascades is Takakkaw – another Cree word meaning “magnificent”. Making a 380-metre descent (with a 254-metre free fall), Takakkaw is the third highest waterfall in Canada – and this is where our jaunt begins.

Tent zipped, food stored, packs cinched – we headed out from Takakkaw Falls Campground (a walk-in tenting area 13 km north of the Trans-Canada Highway near the town of Field) amidst the steady rumble of the falls – which sounds not unlike the metals wheels of a train riding the rails.

We joined the masses of driving tourists paying homage to nature’s majesty before taking the short connector trail leading hikers from the falls parking lot to the Whiskey Jack Hostel. This Hostelling International offering is a 1920’s era staff house left over from a hotel destroyed not once, but twice, by avalanches. They never rebuilt the hotel a third time, but the impressive hostel building remains as a testament to the past.

From the hostel, it’s a steep grunt up the trail cutting through a brushy avalanche path to our goal – the Iceline. The Yoho Valley is replete with spectacular hikes, but this one surpasses all in my opinion. After cresting the ridge, hikers and canines alike are treated to a panoramic view of Takakkaw Falls and the Daly Glacier.

Only 5.7 km long, the Iceline Trail is a meandering trip through glacial till, past pocket lakes and over rocky moraines. Every rise brings new vistas. We climbed a small, pyramid-shaped hummock near the end to savour a view of the Whaleback and the upper Yoho Valley. We scoped out the scenery with binoculars and chatted with a couple from Holland who were overwhelmed by the scenery and lack of crowds and kept telling us how lucky we were to have this in our “backyard.” We just smiled. Rather than continuing a loop back down into the treed valley bottom, we headed back the way we’d come, savouring the open views in reverse.

Lulled asleep by a day full of fresh air and sunshine, we awoke to the omnipresent roar of the falls. Day two took us up through the forested valley bottom towards Laughing and Twin Falls. The gentle climb (60 metres) up to Laughing Falls (with its deep, baritone belly rumble) is a placid warm-up for the 300-metre, switch-backing hike up to Twin Falls, but it’s worth the effort.

After enjoying the jet-engine roar of the dueling streams of water, we stopped for lunch outside of the historic Twin Falls Chalet. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1908, the log cabin was erected near the falls in an effort attract adventurous train travelers. Still popular today, day hikers can join overnight guests for a spot of tea.

Outside the two-storey, slightly tilting cabin, we swallowed down beef jerky and couscous salad while swapping stories with fellow hikers before lacing up for stiff climb up to the Whaleback. The views are as good here as the Iceline Trail (some might say even better). A trio of young, cat-like pine martens chattered in a thick spruce tree as we passed nearby.

Still enjoying the rewards of reaching the summit, we kept an eye on the sky. When a late afternoon thunderstorm began to boom overhead, we beat a hasty retreat off the ridge and down to the Little Yoho River Valley, re-joining our original trail along the Yoho River – a 20 km circuit. Bushed but happy, we ate a quick supper, zipped up sleeping bags and never heard the falls all night!

In no hurry to leave, we packed leisurely the last day, drove around to Emerald Lake and circumnavigated the sparkling gem, with sidetrip up Emerald Basin. Although root-bound at times, this short steep hike offers up a lot of view for little effort.

A little effort, a lot of view… hmmm, that about sums up Yoho.

If You Go:
Visit the Parks Canada at the website listed below and/or pick up a copy of The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide. If in the area, stop in at the Field Visitor Centre (junction of the Trans-Canada Highway and the town of Field turn-off) and ask for a copy of the Yoho National Park Backcountry Guide.