The opportunity to go "gulfing" was irresistible. Mid-winter chills were set aside as we headed west to British Columbia’s Gulf Islands for a chance to stretch our legs.
Narrowing the field from a half dozen island possibilities to one – Galiano – was relatively easy. It’s the second largest of the southern Gulf Islands (57 square km), with a small resident population (just over 1000), excellent hiking potential and, perhaps most importantly, the lowest rainfall on the southern coast.
Named for Commander Dionisio Alcala Galiano (who explored the Strait of Georgia in 1792), the long, skinny isle boasts several decent day hikes and plenty of seaside strolls. Fresh off the ferry, we unpacked dropped our bags at Driftwood Village and bee-lined for the beach – and a 3 km saunter around Gray Peninsula in Montague Harbour Provincial Park.
Sun beamed down as we picked our way along the gleaming white shell beach just off the main parking lot. Remnants from a First Nations midden, the 3000-year-old shell scrap yard drew an almost tropical photo opportunity (once we tossed the toques, mitts and windbreakers aside!). The trail wanders through forests thick with mature stands of Douglas fir, along shorelines speckled with peeling arbutus trees and past sculptured sandstone rock lapped by crystal clear water.
Although fog persisted down near sea level the next day, we parked on Cottage Way and foot-powered our way up Bodega Ridge. The moderate climb through forests of fir, cedar, salal and sword fern quickly gave way to a grass and moss-covered ridge with eagles roosting in snags, squawking ravens and one slow-moving garter snake. Flocks of juncos chirped noisily in the trees and we soaked up the sun again on a rocky bench.
By late afternoon we parked off McCoskrie Road and headed one km down the old road to Cable Bay. After another ˝ km picking our way through the mossy forest and scrambling over downed trees, we reached Pebble Beach – known for its agates and semi-precious stones. Taking the well-beaten path (not the road) heading straight up the hillside from the beach, we strode through fading light in thick trees before reaching the fire road near the Great Beaver Pond. A right turn took us back to the parking lot – a pleasant 3 km jaunt.
Sunshine beamed yet again as we headed up Mount Galiano from the Active Pass Drive trailhead (one of three access points) on our last day. In under an hour we topped out at the 341-metre summit – with stunning views of Salt Spring, Mayne, and Pender Islands.
Short strolls around Bluffs Park (fine ferry watching) and Bellhouse Provincial Park (great seal-watching at the water’s edge) wrapped up a short, but hike-worthy island retreat.
If You Go:
• Bring binoculars (spectacular wildlife viewing opportunities).
• Trails can be muddy; consider packing gaiters.
• If you plan on renting a cabin, book ahead. Options are limited and even mid-week can be full.
• If cooking your own meals, stock up on groceries before arriving (limited selection in the two small markets).
• Don’t miss the brownies at Trincomali Bakery!

