The Art Deco Period (1920-1935)
After World War 1, women finally enjoyed well-deserved freedoms previously denied them. Fashion reflected the emancipation of women and welcomed this exciting new reality by giving a decidedly masculine twist to women's hairstyles. What to do with that glaringly obvious space between the ears and shoulders? Well, fill up the void with earrings, of course! Like every other era throughout history, hair styles dictated the importance of earrings and they have been at times wildly popular or virtually disappeared from the fashion landscape altogether.

Derived from the 1925 'Exposition Internatinale des Arts Decoratif et Industiels Modernes', the term 'Art Deco' manifested itself between the two World Wars. This was a period of design whose 'modernization' caused it to stand apart. Influenced by the Far and Middle East, Greece, the Romans and the Egyptians, Art Deco rose like the Phoenix from the ashes of the first World War. The introduction of cubism in the art world after 1925 brought about strong geometrical patterns strongly associated with this style today.

Diamonds and platinum were used disregarding cost. Gemstones were cut into triangles, trapezoids, oblong shapes, and emerald cuts. Oriental Jade and Coral were carved in oriental style for pendants, bracelets and earrings. Aquamarines, topaz, and citrine are also part of the Art Deco style and widely used to express the feelings of the period. Earring design was characterized by their straight angular shape.

Long chandelier earrings, first seen during this period, are once again very popular. Although the great Depression of the 1930's was a hard time for everyone, the Art Deco style infused the everyday world with elegance and sophistication. Art Deco jewelry was mainly dominated by French designers, Cartier, Bucheron, and Fouquet to name some of the most outstanding.

Retro Modern Period 1935-1945 (War Years)
Earring design was revolutionized in the 1930's with the advent of clip-ons. Wearing earrings became much more appealing to women who disliked the idea of piercing their ears for the sake of fashion. A vast improvement over the screw fitting style earring, clip-ons fit the ear much more securely and have thus remained the most viable option for those who eschew ear piercing. My mother, born in 1927, and many of her contemporaries, wear clip-ons exclusively and don't have pierced ears. Even though I have pierced ears, I still wear several pairs of beautiful clip-ons. For the most part they are rather large, heavy designer pieces and comfortable enough to wear for hours with cushioned clips.

The flamboyant curves and bows often in large pieces of jewelry make this a very obvious period. Yellow, pink, and even green gold were used at this time in a statement of freedom of expression. Copper was used widely during the war in the making of gold as nickle was in short supply, used primarily in the making of arms. A popular stone of this period was calibre-cut ruby or even synthetic ruby, often channel-set in an expression of curvature and color. This style is presently highly collectible and can still be purchased very reasonably.

Modern Period 1945-2007
Reflecting the times, as fashion most often does, 1950’s earrings were light and uncomplicated, conveying a sense of carefree motion. In the 1960’s color and texture exploded onto the scene for earrings and everything else. Innovative, daring, and with an emphasis on fun, earrings in a wide variety of styles were worn. Elaborate styles once worn only for eventing were being worn anytime, day or night, for all occasions.

Continuing in this unrestrained manner, throughout the 1970’s, earrings became hugely popular and filled women’s jewelry cases. The late 1970’s also saw the resurgence of ear piercing and laid the groundwork for today’s piercing frenzy of just about every other body part imaginable.

Earrings continued to become even more popular, and in the 1980’s my own earring collection threatened to take over an entire chest of drawers. In fact, I still wear earrings I bought back then, and they look great. Some are gorgeous costume, others semi-precious and some precious gemstones, but all are still very wearable and work like crazy in the new millennium. I purchased my first pair of Austrian crystal earrings in this decade and they are large pear-shaped numbers that glitter like there’s no tomorrow. I love them, and they look amazing, with not a stone missing after all these years. Who would have thought that Swarovski crystals would once again become the rage in jewelry and jewelry artists are kept busy creating crystal bracelets, necklaces, and earrings made from the finest Austrian crystal.

Throughout the 1990’s and right into the New Millenium, jewelry is hot, hot, hot! Jewelry has certainly retained its well-deserved status as an art form from the earliest of times.