Mole is the heart and soul of Mexico and there is nothing like making your own. While the recipe may seem intimidating at first, there is something almost reverential in the whole creative process. Simple steps like measuring and assembling the ingredients before beginning will make it easier. And once you've tried this version, you'll never go back to canned.

The following is the mole recipe I use most often. It is adapted from the cookbook Rick Bayless' Mexican Kitchen.

Red Mole

For the Ancho Chili Paste:

8 garlic cloves, unpeeled
8 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
11/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Generous pinch cumin
Scant 1/4 teaspoon cloves
About 6 cups chicken broth

To Finish the Dish:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil or lard
2 oz whole almonds
1 small onion, sliced 1/8 inch thick
1/4 cup raisins
5 oz ripe tomatoes
Scant 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup roughly chopped Mexican chocolate (such as Ibarra)
2 slices white bread, toasted
About 2 1/2 teaspoons salt to taste
1 tablespoon sugar to taste

Ancho Paste: Roast the unpeeled garlic in a heavy skillet over medium heat until soft and blackened in spots, about 15 minutes); cool and peel. Toast the chiles by opening them and pressing them flat in the same pan for a few seconds on each side. Soak the chiles in hot water for 30 minutes until they are very soft. Drain. Process the garlic, chiles and remaining ingredients with for the ancho chile paste with 2/3 cup broth in a food processor or blender until smooth. Press through a medium mesh strainer into a bowl.

To Finish: In a medium Dutch oven heat 1 1/2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the almonds and cook stirring until lightly toasted, about 3 minutes. Remove the almonds with a slotted spoon to a blender or food processor. Add the onion to the pan and cook until browned, about 10 minutes. Remove to the blender with the almonds. Add the raisins and stir for a minute as they puff. Put them in with the onions and almonds.

Next roast the tomatoes on a baking sheet 4 inches below a very hot broiler until blackened on two sides. Cool, peel and add to the blender with the cinnamon, chocolate and bread. Add 1 cup of broth and blend to a smooth paste.

Reheat the Dutch oven. When hot, add the ancho mixture and cook, stirring almost constantly until darker and thick, about 5 minutes. Add the pureed almond mixture and cook another few minutes until thickened again. Stir in the remaining 4 1/2 cups broth, partially cover and simmer, stirring occasionally over medium-low for 45 minutes. Taste and season with salt and sugar (it should be slightly sweet).

Serve the mole with roasted, grilled or poached poultry (chicken or turkey), either coarsely shredded or in whole pieces. This makes about 6 cups of sauce and will serve 6 to 9 people. The recipe can be doubled.