It is fun to take Sunday drives to “discover” Mexican towns in the State of Veracruz that are new to me. This week I am here to tell you about a very quaint town which specializes in leather goods.

The town of Naolinco lies about 60 miles from Jalapa, the capitol of the State of Veracruz. It is nestled high in the mountain region called Chiconquiaco. The drive there from Jalapa takes about an hour and a half and is best traversed when it is not raining. The road itself is paved and fairly free of potholes but it is a sinuous road on which one has to be very careful. The scenery is spectacular: vibrant green, with forests all around and wild flowers greeting you by the side of the road and vistas that make you catch your breath.

Naolinco was originally a Totonaco settlement although today this heritage is not too evident. The town has a rich culinary tradition and offers its own delicious versions of mole, chile rellenos and tamales as well as many sweet confections made from milk and fruit. The neighboring village of San Miguel Agazuelos produces primitive handmade red pottery which is for sale in the main square of Naolinco on Sundays. The Sunday market is enjoyable although that is not the main reason that one would take a drive to Naolinco. One goes to Naolinco for leather goods.

I had driven by Naolinco once on my way elsewhere but had not stopped. Too bad because this is really a very attractive town. The main square is shaded by trees and has the typical covered bandstand in the center. I never tire of seeing these quaint town squares in Mexico and the way that folks gather in them to sit and chat. The buildings are well cared for and the colonial facades have been preserved. It is obvious that the town is a prosperous one since one encounters many “mini” malls tucked into old buildings with shops offering all kinds of leather goods.

Leather in Mexico has not reached the quality of other parts of the world, as for example Italy, but nevertheless I was impressed with the quality of what I saw in Naolinco. There were purses of soft, pliable leather and shoes that were also comfortable. The most impressive items that I found were men’s suede jackets. They were extremely well made in rich colors of tan, chocolate and black and were offered at the incredible price of $35!! I bought several to have in my shop in Coatepec.

A visit to the town is well worth while if one is in this part of Mexico.