Basically, there are two types of yarns, each with it’s own method of fiber preparation and spinning techniques. They are: Woolen and Worsted.

Worsted is spun from a combed fiber preparation. Combing removes the short fibers from the locks, leaving a preparation, which has fibers of very similar staple lengths, and it prepares the fibers by aligning them so that they are strictly parallel to each other. The spinning method is either short backwards or short forward draw. The yarn is firm, strong and smooth with low loft, low elasticity, and it is not fuzzy. Worsted yarns are spun from long stapled fibers - over 4", though some authors say over 3". The yarns are sometimes called "summer weight wools" because worsteds are cooler to wear than woolens.

Woolens are spun from carded preparations. Both the short and long fibers of a given fleece go into the preparation and the fiber preparation method does not result in a strictly parallel preparation. True woolens are spun from rolags because that's the least parallel fiber arrangement possible and allows for more air to be "trapped" in the spinning process. Spinning method for a true woolen yarn is the traditional English Supported long draw. Woolen yarns are soft, warm, lofty and fuzzy. The spinning process leaves room for air within the structure of the yarn and this "trapped" air adds to warmth, loft, and elasticity to the yarn.

Between true worsted & true woolen there is a whole range of other possibilities. These are called semi-whatevers - the whatever depends on which authority is speaking. Some classify them as semi-woolen yarns, some as either semi-worsted or semi-woolen depending on either preparation or spinning method, and some call them all semi-worsteds. No matter what they are called, any mix of woolen & worsted techniques results in a hybrid rather than a true woolen or worsted yarn. Some combinations of techniques result in yarns more to the woolen side and some will go more to the worsted side.

Here is an example of a method for spinning a hybrid type of yarn: Start with a drum carded batt and tear lengthwise strips from the batt for spinning, and spin it using the traditional English supported long draw. The preparation is going more towards worsted as the fibers are in a more; though not strictly, parallel arrangement. The choice of spinning with this particular draft will add loft and elasticity though the resulting yarn will not be a true woolen. Choosing a short draw with this preparation would move the yarn farther from true woolen and give it more of the properties of a worsted yarn.

For garment yarns, pick a worsted for cool summer evenings and a woolen for those freezing winter days. For spring and fall try the semi woolens and worsteds – this range of yarns allows the spinner to pick and chose the warmth level of the garment being made. Isn’t it wonderful that we have all of these options available to us?

As a rule of thumb guideline for spinning semi worsteds and woolens, one guideline is to go by spinning method. A Semi- worsted would be spun from a woolen preparation using a worsted spinning technique. A semi-woolen would be spun from a worsted preparation using a woolen spinning technique.