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editor   Tracie Marquardt
BellaOnline's German Culture Editor
 

The Real Carnival in Cologne

Karneval in Germany has a long and rich history that is well worth investigating. But what is Carnival like for the man (or woman) on the street? Hang on for the ride…

Carnival kicks off at 11:11 a.m. on November 11 each year. In 2006, November 11 was a Saturday. Given the rare juxtaposition of a weekend day and the official kick-off party of Carnival, the city was filled to capacity with revelers. Those who traveled to the city for the celebration took the Deutsche Bahn (German Train Company). Whether on long-distance high-speed trains or slower regional trains, revelers were dressed in costume and many had begun to “get in the mood” in the early hours of the morning. It is not unusual to see groups of people, of all ages, imbibing from cases of beer, bottles of schnapps, or bottles of sekt (German sparkling wine) while en route.

Once the revelers have arrived in the city for 11.11, they head toward the old town. Revelers pack the area between the Alter Markt and the Heumarkt (these are two connected squares in the old town). At the Heumarkt, there is a stage where the master of ceremonies and other dignitaries give speeches and traditional German “Carnival songs” are sung to the crowd by well-known performers. The entire process is filmed and broadcast on a large screen in the Alter Markt, as well as on television.

Costumes are varied but tend to be either official Carnival-group costumes or Halloween-type costumes, but worn by groups of revelers. So you may find a group of “surgeons” drinking from I.V. bags, or a group of bushy, red-haired clowns all dressed in matching yellow costumes walking (or trying to, given the crowds) through the pedestrian zone. The pedestrian zone is lined with temporary and permanent establishments selling common “refreshments” such as the city’s famous Kölsch beer and bratwurst on a bun.

By now, most revelers have been drinking for a couple hours and the countdown to 11:11 a.m. begins. The crowd roars and toasts the kick-off of Carnival!

Within hours of the official start of Carnival, many streets in the old town are laden with broken bottles and used party favours. You can avoid these streets by heading for the river, a block away, or by heading toward the shopping area a few minutes away, where you can shop for hours or have cake and coffee in a traditional German konditorei (pastry shop).

Important dates in 2008 (Carnival comes early this year):

Dates in 2008:
Thursday, January 31, 2008 Weiberfastnacht (Women’s Carnival Day)
Saturday, February 2, 2008 “Fruhschoppen” (traditional early morning drinking)
Monday, February 4, 2008 Rosenmontag (Rose Monday - official Carnival parades – the climax of Carnival)
Tuesday, February 5, 2008 Karnevalsdienstag (Carnival Tuesday - last official drinking day of Carnival)

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