Guest Author - Peyton Creadick

Most of us have dealt with an elderly family member (human or otherwise), so we know how aging can affect us. I have a dachshund reaching old age alongside a fat-tail gecko. I've come to certain realizations thanks to this accidental juxtaposition. It’s harder to ignore the aging dachshund, because she’s always present. On the other hand, with Creighton tucked away in her cage, it’s easy for an owner not to notice Creighton is slowing down. She doesn't complain, after all. She has no voice.

Creighton is eleven and was once a prolific breeder. A fat-tail can live much longer than eleven, but a female who was bred regularly during her reproductive years will have a shorter lifespan. Creighton’s age process has taught me a lot and shown me how little information is available on the internet for those of us with elderly herps.

Reptiles and amphibians don't make noises to let you know they're suffering. They don't whine. Even when young, they often show few outward signs of problems until they're very sick. They have no voices. This is why your eyes must be their voices. You must watch carefully as your reptile ages.

Signs of aging:

Breeding/egg laying decreases and eventually stops.
Feeding interest may decline slowly over time.
Quantity of food eaten may decrease.
Injuries or fractures may increase (especially with green iguanas).
Activity may decrease.
Snakes can become bonier along the vertebral column.
Turtles may develop sunken eyes.

As you can see, everything is very subjective with herps. There may be no signs of problems until an injury occurs or a sickness develops. So, what can you do to keep your herp in good shape?

1. Pay attention to how much they are eating.
- You may need to feed fewer prey items at a time.

2. Consider switching carnivores and omnivores to easier to digest prey items.
- Mealworms contain a lot of chiten and can cause blockages.
- Crickets should be wingless (younger).
- Superworms, on the other hand are low on chiten, though you should crush
the head of the superworm to keep it from biting (it hurts, I know!)
or injuring your pet.

3. The vet is your friend! Annual vet check-ups will help catch developing
problems.

4. If your herp requires full spectrum lighting, make sure your bulbs are
fresh and sufficient for the space.
- One single 20 inch fluorescent bulb is not sufficient even in a small
enclosure.
- Full spectrum fluorescent lights should be changed as often as every 6
months depending on the quality of the bulb. Most will produce adequate
UVB for 12 months.

5. Proper supplementation is important!

6. Remember the past. If your herp is a former breeding female, she may reach
old age sooner.

An annual fecal exam and blood testing (especially for larger herps) is a great way to keep an eye on your pet's condition. If your pet is small or would be too stressed by a vet visit (day geckos, for example), your attention to detail is especially important; however, you can take a fecal to the vet without taking the animal.

Now that you have some signs to look for and suggestions to use, hopefully your reptile or amphibian will live out its senior years in comfort. The important thing to remember is to pay attention! Be thorough!

Be well, and if you’re just choosing a herp, check its life expectancy. Remember that he or she may be with you a long time and deserves the best and longest life possible!