Guest Author - Norma Shephard

At first glance, an examination of the intimate apparel of ages past may seem uncomfortably voyeuristic. But, any of us daring enough to have risked opening the lid on Granny’s chest of petticoats, ribbon corsets, and embroidered stockings carefully preserved with sachets of cedar, know that we have taken the first steps on that yellow brick road to fashion nostalgia.

Lingerie — skivvies, unmentionables, neathies — these are the garments designed to conceal, enhance, or reveal various parts of the female form, creating a foundational silhouette for outerwear that changes with each fashion nuance. Over the last two centuries, through the use of corsets, bustles, breast supports, crinolines, and cages, the female form has been distorted into an S-shape, hourglass profile, figure eight, H-shape, A-line, as well as several variations of each.

For the textile collector, those once secret garments that mold the female form seem to transcend time, existing at once in a trinity of temporal dimensions. Originally they charmed through their newness and promise of enhanced beauty. Presently, they instruct, offering a tender look at ages past while holding the anticipation of increased nostalgia and monetary value in years to come.

Textile connoisseurs enjoy the rich diversity of fabrics to be found in these most personal collectibles, from the silk ribbon and cotton coutil employed in the construction of Victorian corsets, to the luxurious satins and intricate laces of the 1930s, and forward to the frilly nylons that carried such a fresh scent when newly laundered. Lingerie classics are a delight to the senses and the imagination.

Although women today rely on fitness and the miracles of Lycra® to achieve a desired silhouette, a collection of period lingerie is essential to the completion of any vintage fashion look, whether the garments are to be worn, used decoratively, or exhibited on mannequins.

The price of vintage lingerie varies and does always reflect a particular item’s historic importance. An 18th-century, rose-colored leather-trimmed wool corset, for example, sold on an internet auction site in October, 2004 for $2,324.52. A richly embroidered blue satin piece from a century later sold in the same price range, but most 19th-century examples are valued at much lower prices. Vintage clothing dealers sell many Victorian and Edwardian undergarments for fewer than $100, while mid-20th century items can be found in thrift store bins for give-away prices. For a closer look at lingerie collectibles follow the link to my book, Lingerie; Two Centuries of Luscious Design.