Who doesn’t love Suzdal? A small small town in Moscow Region’s Golden Ring of historic places to visit. Here’s a paradox for the lover of history; most towns of importance have had to change with the times to support the population there – industrial developments, modern housing, 20th century structures growing around and into the historic hub. On the other hand, where a one-time centre of political power loses its position and influence, what happens? Often development passes by, but so does the money, leaving little to live off, let alone for the preservation of historic sites. Not so with Suzdal. A population of just 12000 with a wealth of architectural gems, decent accommodation and facilities for the visitor, yet heavily protected against random development that would change the character of the place. The scale of this historically important city has been preserved to modern days by a 19th century accident of fate which meant that the railway did not come here. Added to this, the Soviet authorities of the 20th Century showed an astonishing eagerness to protect this place, considering the historical vandalism they accomplished elsewhere.

In summer the ancient buildings nestle in greenery. From the higher part of the old monastery you look down over a shallow meadow valley to more beautiful buildings beyond the small river. Chickens, geese and cows wander at will. Cars are few here, and the tour buses are left in car parks as the place is small enough to get around on foot. If for some strange reason you find yourself in a hurry, a horse-drawn cab can take you to where you want to go. Despite the sleepy appearance, Suzdal has had its fair share of historical drama; from the 12th century dominance of Vladimir-Suzdal over the Russian States, Through Mongol invasions, to the role the monastery played in world war II housing Italian prisoners of war.

This is one of the few small towns in Russia where tourism is both well-developed and developed well. To give you an impression of the way the town has been conserved; a few years ago, after much local discussion, the decision was taken to introduce street-lights! Here you do of course find signs of more recent times – the soviet-era administrative building, for example, the ugly bus station and tourist complex (thankfully located outside the town).

Economically, the town does well for itself. A significant part of the local population lives on the tourist trade, as buses from Moscow and nearby Vladimir stream in, supporting restaurants, hotels, museums and local crafts with their disposable income. A limited number of incomers also live in the town, having made their money elsewhere and now wanting to enjoy the quiet life. Still others are nuns or monks, or other workers for the wealthy Russian Orthodox Church.

This isn’t Moscow. It isn’t the adventurous face of Russian travel either. It’s just a beautiful, peaceful and historic town which is well worth a look.