Drive Highway 95 west of Blanding, Utah towards Lake Powell and you'll cut through the craggy uplift of Comb Ridge, travel across Cedar Mesa's plateau, wind through forests of juniper and sage, and see signs pointing the way to remnants of prehistoric culture (Butler Wash Ruins, Mule Canyon Ruins) and gelogical features (Natural Bridges National Monument). Take a little extra time to pull off on the unpaved sideroads and you'll find superior, uncrowded, and seemingly limitless hiking opportunities.

One such road (just east of the signed and paved road leading to the single, roadside Mule Canyon ruins) heads downhill to South Mule Canyon -- where adventure seekers can trade tires for Tevas and set off down a sandy wash on a hunt for the past.

The trailhead parking lot for South Mule Canyon is little more than a widening of the road, suitable for about four or five vehicles. It's a short walk down from the road to the BLM traihead sign and register. Cedar Mesa dayhiking permits cost $2/person/day or $5/person for seven consecutive days and can be purchased at booth just off Hwy 95 as you turn onto the Mule Canyon access road.

The canyon walls rise dramatically as hikers stroll along the mostly dry (April) creekbed. Almost ninety percent of the trailbed is easy-walking sand through a park-like setting with towering Douglas fir and pines. Rolling red and white sandstone cliff bands off to the sides beg for exploration.

We sauntered upstream for three hours and climbed up to five different ruins -- the first three extemely easy to access and surprisingly close to the creek bottom. Near the end, an exciting scramble up to a higher alcove led us to a caved-in kiva with a few of the timbers still intact. The final ascent above a popular camping area led us to a cave where almost all evidence of structures were gone -- but shaman pictographs, petroglyphs, and pottery shards leave tangible sign of past use.

If You Go:
Deep pools of water in upper canyon stretches provide a good water source, but remember to pack water treatment pills or a filter. For more information about hiking the Cedar Mesa Plateau, visit the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) website and search for Monticello/Cedar Mesa.