So you want to get a train in Russia? Great choice, you’ll see the Russian countryside, have time to relax, and probably get to talk to some interesting people. The Russian railway connects you to places across 8 time zones, and can take you from desert to arctic tundra. Here’s how to choose and buy your ticket.

The cheapest but most time-consuming way to buy Russian train tickets is of course at directly from a station in Russia. Trains can be quite full, particularly in summer or near holidays, so do this as far in advance as possible. It’s not always possible to get the train you want and the seat you want on the same day of travel.

Before you start queuing for a window, a certain amount of preparation is essential. First, look at the timetable (either online or at the station). You need to choose the number of the train you require, and maybe choose a second as back-up. Some of the trains will be marked ‘Firmenniy’. These are privately-run services, where conditions may be better or the train may be quicker (if it’s a fast train, you will see ‘skoriy’ under type of train.). These ones are generally more expensive. You need to check that this train number runs on the day you wish to travel. Many trains are marked ‘chetniy’, running on even numbered days of the month, or the opposite, ‘nechetniy’. Others may run every day, ‘ezhednevniy’, or the days of the week may be marked. Record this information and your date of departure if you think you’ll forget, or can’t speak Russian. Be careful if you’re far from the capital, as timetables and even clocks in station tend to run on Moscow time. Check everything twice! Next you need to be sure which class of seat you would like, platzkart (the cheapest), a coupe for four people, a 2-person coupe (both lower bunks). Write down how many people are traveling also. If you don’t have the information ready at the window, you may be taken pity on, but equally an ear-bashing can ensue, and you may even be dismissed from the window until you’re better prepared.

Now, choose your window and queue! Each window has different times for breaks; these are displayed in the window, so it’s important to check that the shutter will not be pulled down before you reach the front. Queues can be hard to understand, because many people reserve a space for themselves in several queues, meaning you may think a line is quite short when it’s actually huge. Have your passport ready, and photocopies of passport and visa for anyone else who’s traveling, as ID is recorded on the ticket, along with your full name. The lady (or sometimes man) at the window may ask if you want an upper or lower bunk (verkhniy or Nizhniy). It’s better to choose the lower, as although there is room for everyone to sit, an upper-bunker can be relegated above at any moment, or even for the whole duration of the journey. Check your ticket for mistakes before you leave the station! An incorrect ID number on my ticket to Murmansk left me begging to be let on as the train pulled out of the station, my friends and luggage already on board (they let me on in the end). It should be clear by now that buying your ticket is an adventure in itself, one I think not to be missed.

There are of course other ways to get yourself a ticket. Some larger stations have a special ticket hall where you’ll receive a quicker and easier service, but this comes at a price. Otherwise, local agencies exist to do the hard work for you, or tickets can be purchased from abroad, again through a travel agent.

On arriving at the platform
Leave plenty of time! Some trains may be 17 or more carriages long, and if yours is at the front of the train it could take you 10 minutes to get there. Have your ID and ticket ready to show the ‘provodnik/provodnitsa’ for your carriage. Check your seat number (on the ticket) before you get on. Once you find your place, stow your luggage under the lower bunk, or on shelves up above. The Provodnitsa will come to check everyone's found their place once the train has set off, and will take a small amount of money for bedding at this point, if it hasn't been included on your ticket. Now you can change into your slippers and relax.

Schastlivogo Puti! Bon Voyage!