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Federweisser, Zwiebelkuchen and Treberwurst

Late summer in Germany. In the wine regions early ripening grapes are harvested and for the next two months it is time to enjoy Federweißer; the year's young not fully fermented wine best described as a delicious, and easily drinkable, alcoholic grape soda.

A white wine usually made with white grapes, although red such as Pinot Noir are used in Switzerland, it contains yeast from grape "Must", fermented freshly pressed grape juice, so has a lot of fizz and bottles can't be made airtight because they would explode. While unlike most wines Federweißer, from German Feder - "feather" and weiß - "white", can not be stored on its side either; "Flasche nicht legen!" stands large on the cap, because the contents would leak out leaving a puddle...and an empty bottle.

With at least four percent alcohol, sometimes ten percent, it is more alcoholic than it seems and easily absorbed; so there are traditional snacks to accompany it: roasted chestnuts, Pfaelzer Saumagen - stuffed belly of pork, but more frequently the favorite is an Onion Pie or Flan, which in Germany is called Zwiebelkuchen. Literally Onion Cake.

Federweißer does not keep for long, nor does it travel well despite refrigerated trucks etc., and is still difficult to find outside Germany, Switzerland and Austria, so if ever in those countries during those crucial few autumn weeks in late August, September and October it is certainly worth trying.

Although Zwiebelkuchen is a favorite accompaniment to a glass or two, or three, of Federweißer in Germany it is also a dish to be enjoyed without the new wine, and wherever you are in the world.

There are many traditional and family Zwiebelkuchen recipes, often baked using yeast dough as a base, but this Onion Pie, or Onion Flan, recipe is one of the easiest, most popular and has a delicious crust but there is no yeast, or rising time. So it is "quick".

"Well tested" over the years, it comes from Baden Wuerttemberg in South West Germany; the Black Forest area.



For the flan casing:
2 3/4 cups All Purpose Flour
1 cup Butter, diced and kept cold
1/2 cup Cold Water
Pinch Salt

1/2 lb Bacon diced (as a vegetarian alternative just use sufficient oil to coat the onions)
5 medium Onions, sliced whole and cut across into "half moons"
Pinch Sugar
1/2 to 1 tsp Caraway seeds (when making it for the first time, might be best to use the smaller quantity)
2 Egg yolks
1 1/2 cups Sour cream
1/2 tsp Salt, 1/2 tsp Pepper, pinch Nutmeg

Flan Case

Using a large bowl add cold diced butter to flour and mix. Slowly add water, continually mixing, until dough forms into a soft mixture with some small solid pieces of butter remaining. These pieces of butter add texture to the finished pastry.

Chill, wrapped, for about an hour.

Lightly oil quiche or pizza pan and line with the pastry, fork the flan case to prevent the pastry rising, and chill for further half an hour.

(This is a yeast free Zwiebelkuchen crust but ready made pizza dough or bread dough from the chill cabinet can be substituted, and flan case cooking instructions altered to fit).


Fry diced bacon over medium heat until crisp, remove and drain off remaining fat on kitchen paper.

Stirring occasionally cook onions, with pinch of sugar, in remaining bacon fat over medium heat until light gold, translucent, and caramelized, add the caraway seeds and season with salt and pepper.

Combine the cooked bacon with the onion mixture, place in pastry flan case and bake in a pre-warmed oven at 400 F until the pastry is a lightly golden, about 20 minutes.

Mix egg yolks, sour cream and a pinch of nutmeg together until thoroughly blended and pour mixture over the onions and bacon. Return to oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until egg and sour cream mixture has set.

Take Zwiebelkuchen from the oven and allow to cool.

Sometimes a crushed garlic and chopped parsley is added to the onion mixture as it gently fries, or 4 oz finely grated cheese with the sour cream mixture, but these are just options that add that "extra something", and not traditional.

Zwiebelkuchen is usually sliced into sections and eaten as it is, an accompaniment to Federweißer that minimizes the effect of the deceptively alcoholic wine; or with any wine either then or at other times of the year.

It can also be served as a meal with a green or mixed salad.

Treberwurst is another German "harvest time" specialty from wine growing areas using grapes and sausages, which might sound a strange combination but it works.

Treberwurst originated in the vineyards as a meal eaten by the field workers, and it used the leftovers, the "Must", grape seeds and skins, from the wine making, to first marinade, then to wrap and cook sausages over an open fire. But this is an adapted recipe we can all use.



1 lb sausages, with skins
6 oz shallots, finely chopped
1/2 lb large grapes
Large glass white wine
Freshly ground pepper
Pinch Sugar

Halve and deseed grapes, just cover sausages and grape seeds with water, bring to below boiling point and simmer until sausages are cooked through. 30 to 45 minutes depending on the thickness of the sausages.

Remove sausages and cool in cold water, peel and cut into 1/2 inch thick slices, marinade together with grape halves for at least one hour.

Remove sausage slices from marinade, fry on both sides until crisp, take from pan and keep warm.

Put shallots and sugar into pan until lightly caramelized, add grape halves and heat through until beginning to soften, add wine and reduce by two thirds over low heat.

Season with pepper.

Pour sauce over cooked sausage slices, and serve the Treberwurst "as is" with bread as it used to be eaten in the vineyards during harvest. Or with mixed or green salad: a potato dish, perhaps one many different potato salads for example, or the cooked potato and leek combination in the photo.

Guten Appetit!

Federweißer und Zwiebelkuchen courtesy Deutsche Weininstitut,www.deutscheweine.de,Zwiebelkuchen by Biezl, Treberwurst with Leek and Potatoes by Xproiiia, both courtesy de.Wikipedia

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The Best of my Grandmother's German Cookery - Authentic German easy and delicious basic "family" cuisine, with a bilingual index featuring the "real name" as well as the translation, and each recipe has its own "Grandma's Tip". A gem of a cook book, for anyone with some German heritage or interested in the country's "Hausgemachte" cuisine, filled with traditional recipes.

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