Every time I visit Cologne there are a few places I make sure I drop into in the Altstadt (old city center). I have listed them here and recommend you give them a try when you spend a weekend in Cologne.

Biermuseum
This bar isn’t really a museum, but it is a fun place to hang out at night. There are many kinds of beer available by the bottle and on tap (18 of them), including Cologne’s famous Koelsch which is served in 0.4 litre glasses (twice the standard size but likely done for tourist and efficiency purposes). This bar has more kinds of beer than the average bar in Cologne, so if you are looking for something different, try here. It can get really crowded late on weekend nights, but the staff behind the bar is cool and efficient and a dj plays fun music including lots of fest music. There is an upstairs with gallery seating as well.

zum Spanferkel
Once you have roamed the streets of the Altstadt checking out bars, beer (bier) and local brewhouses (brauhaus-s, brauhaeuser-pl)), you might be hungry. I highly recommend stopping at zum Spanferkel, a hole-in-the-wall across from the Bier Museum that serves a very tasty pork sandwich with fried onions and German mustard (spanferkelbroetchen mit zwiebeln und zenf). The pork is cooked in roasts covered with crispy skin. This is a must-have for meat lovers!

Brauhaus Frueh am Dom
The brewhouses of Cologne are a unique experience and you should go to at least one while in the city. One of the most popular is the Frueh Koelsch brewhouse near the Cathedral (Dom). Traditional waiters called Koebe will serve you Koelsch in a steady stream: If you don’t want another glass of beer, cover your beer glass with a cardboard beer coaster (deckel). This brewhouse has several large rooms to choose from and a cavernous cellar that must be seen even if you don’t eat there. The food runs to traditional German and regional specialties and is generally meat-heavy. There is also a terrace outside for sunny days.

Papa Joe’s Biersalon "Klimperkasten"
Papa Joes Biersalon is a fun 20’s-style saloon just a few minutes walk from the Dom. Koelsch is served in the larger 0.4 litre glasses and the food is traditional regional and German specialties. Everything here is a bit overpriced, but it really is a must on a tour of Cologne favourites. Of special note: The Biersalon has the world’s first self-playing tuba orchestra (the second instrument is an accordion) that uses pneumatic valves to generate the tones. The “orchestra” plays about 250 songs, from traditional German folk to pop to classics: All you need to do is drop a euro in the machine and select the songs you want to hear!

Papa Joe's Jazzlokal "Em Streckstrump"
Next door to the Biermuseum, Papa Joe's Jazzlokal is a great bar: Small and intimate, it claims the title as the oldest jazz venue in Germany with live jazz daily. The shows begin at 20:00 and the jazz varies each night as singers and bands from the region, Germany and beyond entertain the crowd. Get there early to get a seat as it is mostly standing room only. Koelsch is served in 0.4 litre glasses and is a bit pricey – but the jazz is free. You are welcome to contribute to the financial security of the band when a hat or other container is passed around after each musical set: A euro or two will do nicely. Of interest: The hanging lists of business cards and foreign currency stapled to and hanging from the bar, and the long bar bench that faces the bar – and not the band!

Cologne is a great city with so much to see and do you will need several weekends to get an impression of it. Every time I go, I experience and see more. I hope you enjoy my favourites as much as I do.

All of the venues listed in this article are located in the Altstadt, post code 50677:

Biermuseum
Buttermarkt 39,
Tel: 0221-257 7802

zum Spanferkel
Buttermarkt 38
Tel: 0221-257 7907

Brauhaus Frueh am Dom
Am Hof 12-18
Tel: 0221-261 3211

Papa Joe’s Biersalon
Alter Markt 50-52
Tel: 0221-258 2132

Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal
Buttermarkt 37
Tel. 0221-257 7931