Let’s face it spinners have an affinity for spinning wheels. They call to us from odd corners of antique shops, whisper “take me home with you” from dark corners at garage sales, scream for rescue from rummage sales, and pop up and wave at us from Craig’s List. We long to be able to save them all if only we had unlimited budgets. But how can we tell if an old wheel that catches our eye is an antique wheel, a vintage wheel, or a wheel that has seen better days and is now only suitable for use as a display item or, God forbid – a planter?

First, we need to define the word “antique”. In the US, we have the Tariff act of 1930 which states in paragraph 1811 that antiques are: "works of art (except rugs and carpets made after the year 1700), collections in illustration of the progress of the arts, works in bronze, marble, terra cotta, parian, pottery or porcelain, artistic antiquities and objects of ornamental character or educational value which shall have been produced prior to the year 1830." Why 1830? That’s the date of the beginning of mass production. Another guideline states that a true antique must be at least 100 years old. In this day and age, the 100 year guideline makes the most sense. So when it comes to wheels today, a wheel must be at least 100 years old to be considered a true antique. Vintage is much harder to define – a vintage wheel would be less than 100 years of age but there is much debate over exactly how old an item must be before it becomes a “vintage item”. A good, gently used wheel from a manufacturer still in business today may or may not be considered vintage – personally, I would say that if the manufacturer supported the wheel with parts and service then it should not be considered as “vintage”.

So, you’ve spotting an interesting old wheel and are thinking of buying it and getting it fixed up and spinning. How do you tell if it’s a good buy?

First, check to see if it has all of its parts.

Second, stand behind the wheel or off to the side if it’s an upright and check to see if the drive wheel looks warped. A slightly warped drive wheel may not impair spinning but too much warping and the wheel will throw the drive band.

If at all possible, try spinning on the wheel. This is where having a little “antique wheel test & repair kit” at hand comes in handy. Your kit should include oil, a small rag, string suitable for making a drive band, suitable cord for replacing a scotch tension band, a small piece of heavy cardboard for making temporary bearings, a small scissors or pocket knife, and some fibers to spin. Most shop owners will gladly let you fix up and test spin old wheels in their shops as your interest may result in a sale. Test all the movable parts and oil them, remove the bobbin and flyer unit and oil that (cut temporary cardboard bearings if needed, replace the drive band, try treadling, and then if all seem well, try spinning on the wheel. Check to see that all non-moving parts fit tightly and well. Your test spin should tell you what work the wheel may need to get it in good operating condition, if any.

Often old wheels have missing parts. Before buying, consider the cost of having replacements made by an antique wheel restorer. Pricing on restoration work goes by exactly what work is needed with the replacement of a bobbin and flyer unit being one of the more expensive repairs.



An antique Acadian spinning wheel of Canadian origin.





View of the spindle head on an antique pendulum wheel.