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Tracie Marquardt
BellaOnline's German Culture Editor

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First-time spa experience in Baden Baden

Germany is a country that loves and indulges in its spas for both health and recreation purposes. Most spa towns begin with the word "Bad" which in English means bath. These towns have thermal baths that are fed by hot mineral springs.

I know many, many Germans go to spas semi-regularly but a lot of expats living in Germany simply do not give the thermal baths a try. For some expats, the idea of being naked in front of tens of strangers puts them off. Many spas require full nudity and certainly the sauna portions do.

The Caracalla Spa in Baden Baden does not require full nudity in its pools, which made it the perfect spa to try as first-timers. As we had never been to a German spa before, we had no idea what to expect or what to do: Where do you change into your bathing suit? Are towels supplied? Do men and women change together?

We arrived at the spa at 7:30 pm on a cool March evening. We bought tickets that would let us visit the spa for two hours and then rented towels as we hadn't brought our own. We slid our ticket into the reader at the changing area and went into a little change cabin which fits two people. We changed into our bathing suits and then proceeded through the other side of the cabin (the cabins have a door on each end) which brought us into the no-shoe zone with lockers. After locking up our clothes and valuables, we proceeded to the shower area, had a quick shower and stowed our towels in the racks on the wall available for this reason. And then our adventure in relaxation began.

The indoor pool is in a large room with a domed roof. We immediately walked into the pool and then through it - it is circular in shape with smaller, raised circular pools of water within it. We spotted the grotto and wanted to try it immediately. It has two parts: the larger section is very popular and at 38 degrees Celsius, the perfect temperature. Water gushes into the grotto at a point in the center, and the force of it as you stand in the middle feels great on your body. You can then dip yourself into the other, smaller side of the grotto, which is a cool 18 degrees and very refreshing!!

There were two outdoor pools that we could access while still in the water: One at 35 degrees and the other at 32 degrees. These pools were irresistible: the mist was rising off them into the cool winter air and the romance of the night was everywhere around us.

Each outdoor pool has a hot tub that is on a timed cycle. The intense bubbles blast away at you for about 10 minutes, then the water calms for a period of time. This allows you to rotate into the large pool and give others a go at the hot tub. The cooler pool has an above-ground mushroom-shaped fountain that you can climb up to and then let the water cascade over you. When back in the pool, the current will take you slowly towards the outer side of the pool. The warmer pool has a waterfall that you can glide under to ensure your muscles are pummeled into submission.

The best, most amazing experience we had that night was the built-in seats in the 35-degree outdoor pool. Strong jets of water wash over you for about 10 minutes. This must be what nirvana is like! I closed my eyes and the world disappeared. The only things that existed were my body, the hot water pounding on my body, and the sound of the rushing water.

And when the interval of hot pulsing water ended, I felt more relaxed that I had ever thought possible. We enjoyed the outdoor pools, in the cool 5-degree night, with light rain falling on our heads and shoulders, and watched the mist rising off the water until it was time to go.

Next time, we will go for longer and indulge in some of the other services Caracalla has to offer, such as the many saunas and relaxation areas.

Things you need to know to enjoy the spa experience to the fullest:
Bring water in a plastic bottle and leave it with your towel.
Bring flip flops or other pool shoes.
Bring at least one towel. Two is even better.
Don't stay in the water the entire time.
Bring shampoo or soap to shower with when done.

Caracalla hours and prices:
2 hours cost 13 euros
3 hours cost 15 euros
4 hours cost 17 euros
Multiple visit tickets are available at a discount.
Towel rental: 5 euros plus 10-euro deposit.

Caracalla is closed on December 25 and 26th but open all other days of the year. Reduced hours on New Years Eve. Monday to Sunday 8:00 am - 10:00 pm. Last admittance is two hours before closing.



Caracalla Therme (Spa)
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Content copyright © 2008 by Tracie Marquardt. All rights reserved.
This content was written by Tracie Marquardt. If you wish to use this content in any manner, you need written permission. Contact Tracie Marquardt for details.

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