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Deborah Barocas
BellaOnline's Caribbean Culture Editor

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Visit Montserrat - The Other Emerald Isle
Guest Author - Lea Ann Fessenden-Joseph

While visiting friends in Antigua in 2002, we decided to take a ferry to their neighboring island, Montserrat, for a day. The trip was pleasant and the crossing easy with the beautiful Caribbean sun shining down on us. I was excited to see this lush little island I had heard so much about since their devastating volcanic eruption in 1995 and again in 1997.

I was so impressed with the natural green lushness of the tropical island as we approached. Once we docked and started walking around, I was even more impressed with the gentle kindness of the locals. We spent a little time at a nearby beach but I was amazed at how incredibly hot the volcanic black sand was and I had to quickly abandon the idea of spending too much time without an umbrella.

So we started walking and talking to folks along the way. My Antiguan friend quickly ran into a former acquaintance that welcomed us into his car. He had a very different accent than most of the islanders I had met throughout the Caribbean. I later found out that Montserrat was originally settled by a group of Irishmen who had first settled on St Kitts. Unable to bear the anti Roman Catholic sentiment of the English in St Kitts, the Irishmen moved to the idyllic little island of Montserrat. Ok, maybe that was a hint of a brogue I heard from our friend James.

Apparently back in 1979, Montserrat became a bit of a haven for British singers and songwriters who came to record at AIR Studios. Unfortunately, Hurricane Hugo struck in 1989 and demolished 90 percent of the buildings on the island and AIR studio closed.

Then in 1995, the Soufriere Hills volcano erupted and buried the capital city of Plymouth. Sadly, with the capital shut down, the airport closed and homes destroyed, more than half the island’s population was forced to evacuate.
Our friend James was so happy to have visitors that he couldn’t wait to take us to his home that the government was instrumental in building. It was a very pretty three bedroom made from very sturdy cement. In spite of the challenges the people of Montserrat have seen, everyone I met were so kind and seemed genuinely delighted to have a few tourists to spoil for the day.

James took us to a little bar which was closed. He went around back, found the owner and within 10 minutes the bar was open, the music blaring and we were having a party! This was a good spontaneous combustion.

I was told that because of the early Irish influence and the verdant green hills, Montserrat is often referred to as the “Emerald Isle” of the Caribbean.
They finally have constructed a new airport since I have been there and I’m delighted to hear that LIAT and Carib Aviation have partnered and are offering flights into Montserrat. This makes it a lot easier especially for those who find it difficult to withstand the choppy waters of the ferry boat ride from Antigua.

So check out this happy little place. You will love it and I assure you that the people there will make your visit unforgettable, they certainly did mine.

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Content copyright © 2009 by Lea Ann Fessenden-Joseph. All rights reserved.
This content was written by Lea Ann Fessenden-Joseph. If you wish to use this content in any manner, you need written permission. Contact Deborah Barocas for details.

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