While structural fleece faults affect the actual structure of the staples, staining and foreign matter contamination is usually caused by substances getting into or on the fleece. A stained fleece or one contaminated by vegetable matter may be structurally free of faults but yet be worthless due to the degree of contamination.

Foreign Matter:

Dermatitis: This is caused by a skin infection. The locks of fleece in the affected area will feel hard and be stuck together. Remove a few damaged locks and wash them as this will usually remove the “glue” and the wool should be sound.

Insect Damage: This is caused by insects getting on the fleece and leaving traces behind. Look for signs of insect fraz and pieces of pupal cases in the fleece. Skirt away any infested areas and give the fleece a good washing. If the infestation affects the entire fleece, then the best thing to do is to get rid of that fleece.

Scurf: Scurf is caused by a mite and appears as white flakes in the fleece, usually at the butt end of the locks. Basically, it looks like dandruff. It will not wash out and processing will not remove it. A fleece contaminated by scurf is best left on the skirting room floor.

Vegetable Matter: This is simply bits of hay, straw, weeds, leaves, twigs, any type of vegetation that winds up in the fleece. Skirt heavily contaminated areas out of the fleece. Light contamination may be removed by picking and carding though carding will distribute remaining small bits of VM evenly throughout the processed fleece. Flick carding or combing will usually do a good job of removing all but the finest VM contamination.

Yolk: Yolk is basically suint which is sheep sweat. It will wash out of the fleece. Stringy Yolk occurs when some areas of the sheep’s skin produce more yolk than others and is recognized by vertical “strings” of the substance being present in some areas of the fleece. Washing will remove it though it’s best to avoid fleeces that are heavily contaminated by stringy yolk.

Staining:

Bacterial Stains: Caused by a bacterial infection in the wool these stains come in many different colors - apricot, orange, green, purple, brown, and even bluish. Skirt the affected areas away. If the fleece is structurally sound and worth saving, try overdying to cover the staining.

Black Fungus Tip: The tips of the fleece will be black and appear to have been dipped in tar. If the staple length is long enough, trim the tips off of the fleece. Otherwise, leave the fleece on the skirting room floor.

Brands or Marking Crayon: These stains will be brightly colored and look waxy. While most of the branding inks and crayons used today are washable, some are not. Wash stained lock or two to see if the staining will come out. If not, simply skirt the affected area away.

Canary Stain: Yellow in color and probably the most commonly seen stain, canary stain will not wash out. Blending the fleece well in processing the fleece will distribute it evenly, making the fleece usable. Another way to use a canary stained fleece would be to dye it. Do not confuse this with Yolk which will wash out or with Yellow Banding Stain which shows as a horizontal bad of yellow coloring in a fleece and may also wash out but may also be a sign of fleece rot.

Charcoal Stain. This is caused by the sheep rubbing against burned wood. The stain shows as black at the tips of the fleece, shading to lighter toward the butt end of the locks. Usually this will wash out though any remaining stain at the tips may have to be trimmed away.

Pink Tip: This is seen as pink tips on the locks. It’s due to a photochemical reaction in wet wool. Try washing a few locks to see if it scours out or if the tips need to be trimmed away.