Applique - It's the Tops

Guest Author - Tamara Bostwick

Applique, according to Webster, "is a cutout decoration fastened to a larger piece of material" (Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary, Springfield, MA, 1980). While this is an accurate definition it does not fully explain the charm and the wondrous possibilities of applique. You can applique on clothing or quilts. You can applique by hand or by machine. Even those who do not sew can do applique using fusible web. There are a number of different methods of applique - try different methods and techniques until you find one that works for you.

Hand Applique

This method entails cutting shapes from fabric using a template, turning the edges under and hand stitching with nearly invisible stitches. This site visually demonstrates several methods of turning the seam allowance before application. A popular method is one using freezer paper. That may sound strange to you - I know that I thought it was kind of kooky until I tried it. There is a magic to freezer paper in that you can iron the shiny side onto most fabrics without damaging them. It is the post-it note of the quilting world! One method is to iron the shiny side down onto the fabric and then trim 1/4" around the paper for the seam allowance and then use the nice smooth edge for turning the seam. The opposite method entails laying the the shiny side up on the fabric shape and using the iron to stick the seam allowance to the freezer paper to stabilize it while sewing. My personal preference is to iron the shiny side down and then use a spray starch to iron the seam allowance down.

Another technique with which I have had success is using fusible interfacing or recycled dryer sheets. You cut one shape from the fabric and one from the interfacing/dryer sheet, sew them together with a 1/4" seam, cut a slit in the interfacing and then turn and press. Voila! You end up with nicely turned edges. The fusible interfacing can be used to apply the motifs and keep them from moving while you stitch them down.

There are also several stitching methods - it is generally preferred that your stitches not show much but recently, the blanket stitch method has become popular especially in wearables because it is attractive and gives the garment a homespun look. Rather than attempt to explain with words how to stitch, I will direct you to this article written by Addy Harkavy for Quilt Gallery Magazine which has wonderful visual images of several different stitches.

I hope you have enjoyed this segment on hand applique. Please also read my articles on Machine Applique and Baltimore Album Quilts.