Machine Applique - Quilting

Guest Author - Tamara Bostwick

If you like the look of hand applique, but just don't have the time or energy to spend doing hand stitching, with some practice you can reproduce the effect to a degree on your sewing machine. There are several techniques that have different results. I will discuss three that I have tried myself...take some time to try each one and see which you prefer.

Satin Stitch AppliqueThe first method uses the satin stich setting on your sewing machine. This is the method that I use most often for embellishing clothing. The satin stitch is a zig-zag stitch set to such a short stitch length that there is no space showing between the stitches. When the pieces are stitched to the background fabric the edges of the applique pieces are completely covered. This method is not difficult, but can be time consuming and will eat up a large amount of thread. The most important factor for beginners is to go slow.

The first difficulty to hurdle and sometimes the most difficult part is to properly adjust your machine. Look at your zig-zag settings and determine how to adjust the stitch length. If you are lucky, you may even have a satin stitch setting on your machine! Unfortunately, I don't and much as I love my machine, when I want to use satin stitch on a project, I go to my mom's and use her machine. She has an old reliable Kenmore that has the ability to adjust the stitch length with a dial and it works great! For some reason, my Singer just won't do it as nicely. Needless to say, I have not done much satin stitching since I moved out. I am saving up for one of those new-fangled fancy machines though. The trick is to adjust the stitch length so that it is dense enough that the fabric edges do not show through without making it so close that it gobs up in the face plate and won't move. I usually do a test and then scratch the stitches with my fingernail to make sure they are also tight enough and don't move back and forth.

Stitch width is another factor for adjustment but this is not as important as the length. The width contributes to the aesthetic look of the applique. Generally, the wider the stitches, the more dramatic the edge stitching will look. Also, the fabric selection will contribute to this a bit since fragile or loosely woven fabric sometimes do better with a wider stitch that bites into the fabric further away from the edge. Always do a few tests with the desired fabric and determine what you prefer.

When you have decided on your pattern and background fabric, you need to then determine how you want to hold the pieces in place. You can pin each piece as you go, but I have found that it is easier to use some method of adhering the pieces in place. I generally use a very light fusible web and iron each piece in place as I go along. If you want to do this, make sure that the fusible web is for sewing, since they make heavier ones that are intended to make a permanent bond without sewing and if you try to applique over this, you will gum up your needle and possibly break it. I like to use the fusible because it stabilizes the fabric and helps keeps the edges from fraying while you are sewing. There are other options for adhering the pieces including a water soluble glue stick or spray on adhesives.

While the technique is easy, there are some tricks that are helpful. You want to be aware of where the left and right edges of the stitches hit the fabric. Ultimately, you want the majority of the stitch to extend over the edge of the fabric. This makes for the most sturdy finished product. When you are guiding the fabric, you do not want to push or pull the fabric through, let the machine do the work. Just lay a few fingers lightly on the fabric and push the fabric left or right as necessary. When it comes to doing points, curves and corners, there are some tips to remember that are visually illustrated here in this brief article about applique.

Don't worry...there's more!

Click here to learn about Invisible Machine Applique and Machine Buttonhole Applique.