Truffles are the queens of the chocolate realm, in the same sense that roses are the height of flower glory -- for richness and beauty, there simply isn't any higher to go.

But the wonder of truffles is that they are easier to make than many of their lesser chocolate cousins. Truffles only ask a little stirring, a little time, and a minimum of ingredients.

Because those ingredients are so few, they should be good quality. You may enjoy eating Hershey's chocolate out of hand, but don't melt it down for truffles. Go to the health food store or the specialty shop for some fine chocolate and really rich cream. And good butter -- never, ever margarine.

You'll need either a very heavy-bottomed pot or a double-boiler. I have used both, and suggest you use whichever is handy. If you don't have a double-boiler, don't rush out and buy one.

Make small batches at a time. This recipe can be doubled, but I wouldn't go farther than that. Truffles are only worth eating for a few days after they're made; and if you run into any trouble with melting the chocolate, if it's only a little batch you only have a little to worry about.

Break up four ounces of dark chocolate -- sweet, bittersweet, anything you like as long as it isn't milk. Put it into your pot over the lowest possible heat, or in the top of the double-boiler with the bottom filled with hot (but not boiling) water.

When the chocolate has melted completely, shut off the heat. Drop in two tablespoons of butter and stir until completely melted and blended. Stir in two tablespoons of cream.

That's it. That's all you need for the ganache, or filling, of a basic truffle.

Of course you can play with it. Many truffles have liqueurs in their filling. Crème de menthe is elegant and wintery; Framboise, a raspberry-flavored liqueur, is heaven itself with chocolate. Or you could exacerbate your chocolate experience with a touch of Godiva's chocolate liqueur.

You only need about half a tablespoon of any of these -- a tablespoon at the absolute most. You want a flavored chocolate, not alcohol with a hint of chocolate.

If you don't care for alcohol, you can still flavor your truffles. Look in the baking supplies aisle for orange, peppermint, lemon, and other flavored extracts. (Never use essential oils for cooking unless they are marketed for use in food!) Add about half a teaspoon of any of these to your ganache.

Put the ganache in a small bowl and chill it, stirring frequently, about half an hour. It should be firm, but soft enough to shape.

Use a teaspoon or small melon-baller to scoop the ganache onto a foil-lined baking sheet. You can round the truffles with your fingers, but a certain roughness is part of the charm. Put these in the refrigerator for a couple of hours.

Now you're faced with a choice: to dip, or not to dip? When I'm feeling lazy, I just roll them in a little cocoa powder -- unsweetened cocoa, preferably Dutch processed.

If, however, you're feeling ambitious, melt another four ounces of chocolate. Turn off the heat and add two teaspoons of walnut or almond oil (again, make sure it's food quality, not cosmetic).

This is the only part where you have to worry about the actual temperature. The chocolate should be at about 85 or 90 degrees F. You'll know it's too hot if you can't touch it comfortably, and too cold if it gives you a fight when you try to coat a truffle with it.

You can use a fork or a couple of spoons for this part. You can also decorate the dipped truffles with anything you like -- a chocolate-covered coffee bean, some twists of lemon peel, chopped nuts, chocolate sprinkles, or cocoa. Chill them again to firm up the chocolate coating.

Don't store these in the refrigerator. Keep them in a cool, dry place. Eat them promptly (it's a tough job, but be brave), or give them away to repay (or incur) a debt.