Guest Author - Deborah Markus

I grabbed I'm Dreaming of a Chocolate Christmas when I saw it at the library because the title contained two words I like: chocolate, and Christmas. Although Christmas is a time for traditions, it's always nice to try a little something new, too -- especially when that something is chocolate.

I was intrigued by the introduction, in which the author, Marcel Desaulniers, explained that the recipes in this book were intended for the holiday season because they were not overly time-consuming or complex. Desaulniers admits that he is guilty as charged of creating the recipe for Death by Chocolate, which is pages long and takes days to make, but adds: "Use my other baking books the rest of the year and this one during the holidays." Its recipes are "simple and straightforward, but still loaded with WOW!"

(I did find it funny that Desaulniers added with a straight face that his wife, a confirmed non-cook, "could read and understand the recipes." I know what he meant, but still, I hope that the first part of that sentence would always be true of any recipe he created.)

I leafed through the book with this in mind, marking the occasional page that I wanted to be sure to remember. The first section was full of homey treats -- Jan's Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cake, Chocolate Cherry Muffins -- that did indeed look as if an ordinary person in a smaller-than-ordinary kitchen could make them with ease and pleasure. Even fancier fare -- Mike's Dark Chocolate Black Bottom Bites, Chocolate Chip Pecan Rum Tart -- seemed reassuringly down-to-earth.

I found much to inspire my own creations. I never would have thought of adding chocolate chips to the filling of a fruit dessert, as Desaulniers does in his Cranberry Apple Chocolate Chip Crumble.

And I saw a lot of practical advice for the home cook. The author always advises as to how long these creations will stay good (not that I imagine leftovers could be a problem with any of these goodies), and gives storage suggestions. If an ingredient sounds the least bit out of the way, he offers reassurance. In the recipe for Beth's Mocha Madness Cookies, he explains that the instant espresso powder he lists as an ingredient should be at the grocery "in the same general location as you find instant coffee," adding that if they don't have it, you can just substitute instant coffee.

Desaulniers does forget his mission statement now and then. Pumpkin Pecan Caramel Chocolate Fudge Ice Cream Cake requires more than one page just to list all the ingredients, and another three to explain how to make it. This is one recipe that's really six -- the cook needs to prepare ice cream, fudge sauce, caramel sauce, fudge cake, ganache, and a garnish from scratch. The author assures us that all this work is worthwhile, but the fact is, I can find overly-involved recipes in any cooking magazine or high-end cookbook, especially during the holiday season. I came here for the promise of simple goodness.

Sometimes the recipe is simple enough; it's the concept that's a problem. I love cocoa, and coconut, and pumpkin, and chocolate chips, and muffins. I'm just not sure I'm ready for Cocoa Coconut Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Muffins, no matter how easy they are to make.

But for the most part, this book is full of "ooh, I want to make that -- and that -- and THAT" moments. There are instructions for several wonderful-sounding chocolate-peanut butter confections, for those of us who adore chocolate and peanut butter. Many tricky-sounding creations, such as Caramel Chocolate Chip Cake and Chocolate Strawberry Hazelnut Brownie Bars, are surprisingly simple. And most of these treats would be wonderful all year 'round -- though the Chocolate Fruitycakes would take a little explaining in July.

Though I wouldn't give this book to a complete novice, the "Equipment, Ingredients, and Techniques" section is full of simple, sound advice for cooks of all levels of experience. Desaulniers' advice on chocolate -- buying, storing, and types of -- is invaluable.