Faggoting & Tatting on Collar
Faggoting is an embroidery stitch joining across an opening between pieces of fabric. It is also used as a decorative stitch to cover seams. [Ed. note: There will be more about faggoting in the second portion of this long pattern which will be posted in the new articles on Sunday, June 30, 2019. It was just too big to fit in one email/article.]
This collar by Norma Benporath will require planning and concentration. It is a vintage public domain pattern.
The Australasian (Melbourne, Vic. : 1864 - 1946), Saturday 16 February 1935, page 14. Designed for "The Australasian" by Norma Benporath
NEEDLECRAFT AN EXQUISITE COLLAR IN HAND-MADE LACE [with] CLEVER USE OF TATTING AND FAGGOTING Here is the original introduction.
WHETHER inset as a yoke or worn loosely, worked in white or ecru cotton, or in cream silk, this new collar will be equally attractive. The cobweb texture of the tatting, combined with the faggoted rouleaux of shear linen or silk give it a lace-like texture which lends grace and charm to almost any type of frock, from a delicate silk to a rich velvet.
The original collar, which is worked with No. 24 Semco rayon crochet silk, is 6 in. deep, from the base of the neck band to the edge of the lace. All, or only some sections, of the design, may be worked to make collars of varying widths, and, in addition, the units of the design may be worked with other threads for different purposes.
Before commencing the tatting for a collar, cut a paper pattern to serve as a guide for working, so that the finished collar will be of the correct size and shape. Cut the pattern from strong brown paper, for the work is sewn on to it, and not taken off until completed.
This is an example of a vintage collar which has the bias tape as the starting point.
First of all tack a length of curved bias binding on to the pattern around the neckline. Tack another a little more than a quarter of an inch away from it, and connect the two with faggot stitching. This gives a foundation for the work.
Commence the tatting by working the smart little neck band, which is just three quarters of an inch high. This consists of a double row of rings, separated by diagonal chains.
THE NECK BAND. All chains of this section of the design are 6 ds-
Ring 3ds p 6ds p 3ds. Chain 6ds
*Ring 5ds 3p sep by 5ds, 5ds. Chains 6ds
Ring 3ds join to last p of the last small ring, 6ds p 3ds. Chain 6ds
Ring 5ds join to last p of the larger ring 5ds p 5ds p 5ds.
[Note: The original directions do not indicate a reverse work after ring or chain. However, we must consider a rw necessary in the tatting. Today we would write this pattern as:
R 3 - 6 - 3 clr rw
CH 6 rw
*R 5 - 5 - 5 - 5 clr rw
CH 6 rw
R 3 + (join to p of last small ring) 6 - 3 clr rw
CH 6 rw
R 5 + (join to p of the larger ring) 5 - 5 - 5 clr rw
Repeat from * until a sufficient length for the neck band has been made.
Sew it to the edge of the bias binding by the picots of the larger rings, so it will stand upwards around the neck when being worn.
[Ed. note:There will be more about faggoting in the second portion of this long pattern which will be posted in the next article. It was just too big to fit in one email.]
This is a vintage example of faggoting without attribution.
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