Two Patterns from The Young Englishwoman
This is a rather old pattern and the directions are written in old-fashioned tatting terms. I have only 8 pages of the booklet and there is no date on it, unfortunately. I have seen online samples of cutwork attributed to a needlework booklet of this name but without cover, contents or date of publication; 1875 was posited.
The collar pattern is #176. These are the original directions.
Please examine the photo. The collar consists of several "tabs" of embroidered cloth edged with tatting and joined in a series. There is also a header row of tatted rings and chains through which a ribbon may be threaded to secure the collar while being worn. Although it appears that the ribbon goes over and under these rings, it seems unlikely. It appears that these rings will be joined by a picot which is not visible under the ribbon. The ribbon may as easily be threaded over/under the joined picots which attach the header to the tabs.
As you read the original directions, please remember that "purl" was used to identify a picot at that time. Also, circle usually means ring, scallop means chains and "looping into the purls" indicates a join.
Pattern #176 pg. 170
Using two shuttles or needle and ball begin at the top left on a tab. If the center decoration is prepared in advance, then the center picot of the rings may be joined directly into the fabric.
**R 5 - 5 + (join to center decoration if prepared otherwise make a picot) 5 - 5 clr rw CH 2 - 3 - 3 - 2 rw *R 5 + (join to last picot of previous ring)5 + 5 - 5 clr rw CH 2 - 3 - 3 - 2 rw NOTE: the last 4 chains on the tabs have only 1 picot on the chains with which to join to the next tab. * Repeat around the tab increasing the ds count on the bottom chains by 2 ds to accommodate the curve. The illustration shows 6 rings on the side, then rings with expanded chains at the bottom and 6 more rings on the opposite side.
After the last ring on the second side, do not reverse work.
The chain bridge the gap to the next tab CH 5 - 5 rw.
** Repeat tab.
On the last tab remember to add the decorative picots to match the first tab, do not cut thread, do not reverse work.
Continue the chain to enter the header row of alternating rings and chains.
CH 5 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 5 rw (this is the end chain which makes the curve) R 5 - 5 + (join to the picot on the last ring made)5 - 5 clr rw
CH 8 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 8 rw
(I do not see any joins in the illustration but the section of 8 picots could be changed to 4 - 4 and then the chains may be joined as desired.)
R 5 - 5 + (join to the picot on the next ring, tab or chain, whichever comes next)5 - 5 clr rw
CH 8 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 8 rw
Here's the latest article from the Tatting site at BellaOnline.com.
The Young Englishwoman wheel From the vintage publication, The Young Englishwoman, a wheel pattern #174 is examined to modernize the directions.
http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art305081.asp
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