The Effects of World War II on Fashion Jewelry Manufacture
Most jewelry of the 1940s was true "costume jewelry," made from less-expensive metals and imitation (e.g., glass) or semi-precious (versus "precious") stones. Most of this jewelry was made in America, sometimes using imported components. During World War II, most American jewelry manufacturers had no choice but to produce costume, rather than "fine," jewelry. Gold was removed from circulation prior to the war, and platinum and even white base metals were reallocated for the manufacture of munitions and other military supplies. Some jewelry manufacturers were even recruited to produce military equipment instead of, or in addition to, jewelry.
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| At the same time, glass rhinestones, beads and faux pearls became difficult or impossible to import to the United States. Much of the glass used in fashion jewelry came from the famous glass-making regions of Czechoslovakia. Trade with the Czech glassmakers was discontinued after the annexation of Czechoslovakia by Germany. Similarly, faux pearls from Japan became unavailable when the U.S. cut off trade with Japan in the years leading up to the attack on Pearl Harbor. In the early '40s, when the availability of these components first dropped, jewelry manufacturers used their existing supplies of components to create their designs. They often combined these with sterling silver, which took the place of platinum and white base metals. By the late 1940s, copper and brass were heavily used in chains and other jewelry components. Over time, as supplies severely dwindled, manufacturers began combining their remaining stones and metals in atypical ways. This is why some 1940s jewelry contains many small, multicolored mixed stones. Jewelry was also made using "faux" stones made of plastics like bakelite, celluloid, and Lucite. |
If you're interested in learning more about vintage costume jewelry, consider consulting one these helpful publications:
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