Russian Zakuski - Appetizers

Zakuski are the Russian version of appetizers. The word zakuska is derived from the verb zakusit, meaning to nibble, eat, bite. Zakuski are the equivalent to the French version of hors d’oeuvre, Spanish tapas, or Italian antipasti -- apertivos. Zakuski run the gamut from extremely fancy and expensive to simple. Their purpose? To tease the appetite and to serve as a nibble to accompany vodka or other beverages. One shouldn't drink on an empty stomach.

Back in the 20th century, it was fashionable to first nibble on zakuski, then attend the theatre, and afterwards partake in a late supper. Of course, vodka was the accompanying drink, served chilled and in tiny glasses, probably equivalent to a half ounce or so. There could be up to 15 kinds of vodka offered, from the basic unflavored to a variety of flavored vodkas. Flavorings might have included buffalo grass for an earthy taste, berry flavored vodka, lemon vodka, and even vodka peppered with black pepper.

Supposedly, it was the men that drank the vodka while women sipped sherry, but I can attest to the fact that my Grandmother, Babushka, was not shy to have a shot or two. The Grandfather I never met, however, insisted that one need not drink to have a good time, and, as a result, he did not touch the stuff! He managed to be the life of the party anyway, playing his accordion and singing.

I’d venture to state that is was ikra or caviar, red, black and gray -- the roe or eggs of fish -- that was the most expensive type of zakuska served. Other zakuski are based on delights from the sea: fish aspic, salty herring and fish pate.

Aspic, called kholodetz, is also made from chicken and pork. Black Russian bread -- unprocessed and delicious -- enhances the flavors and can be spread with pate.

Vegetables also play a role in the zakuski: the poor man’s version of caviar is made with eggplant, similar to an Italian caponata. Simple items such as pickles, scallions dipped in salt, marinated mushrooms, tomatoes and salads also can grace the table.

Recently, I rediscovered a salad called vinaigrette, not to mean the dressing. It’s made with beets, potatoes, pickles and can be kicked up a bit with herring or eggs. It amazes me that I’m craving the foods from my childhood that I previously refused to eat: simple, wholesome food.

I suppose it comes down to this: maturity brings a new appreciation to one’s heritage. The voyage to discovery is an interesting one and I wonder where it will lead to next!