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Collar 246 The Young Englishwoman


Two Collars from The Young Englishwoman
two patterns from the vintage publication The Young Englishwoman pg 233 no date

These are rather old patterns and the directions are written in old-fashioned tatting terms. I have only 8 pages of the booklet and there is no date on it, unfortunately. Previous patterns 174 and 176 have been identified as from "La Mode Illustrée" 1872 by Edwige Renaudin.

Edwige Renaudin is a master tatter from France and the author of, "La Frivolité aux Navettes, Les Bases Fondamentales Perfectionnées Vol. 1" published by éditions didier carpentier, 2012, HB, more than 1000 photos and illustrations, 92 pages in full color.

Although the text of this book is all in French, the photos, diagrams and illustrations make this book a true treasure for tatters, tatting historians, tatted lace designers and tatting teachers. It is the most comprehensive book about tatting I have encountered in more than 33 years of tatting. It begins with a history of tatted lace with a detailed list of tatting terms and abbreviations.

cover

The collar pattern is #246. These are the original directions.

collar pattern 246 from the vintage publication The Young Englishwoman pg 233 no date, possibly 1872. partial directions only.

As you read the original directions, please remember that "purl" was used to identify a picot at that time. Also, circle usually means ring, scallop means chains and "looping into the purls" indicates a join. R = ring, CH = chain, rw = reverse work, dnrw = do not reverse work, p or - = picot, + = join, clr = close ring, ds = double stitch, jk or jr = Josephine ring or knot.

collar #246 from the vintage publication The Young Englishwoman pg 233 no date, possibly 1875.

Collar #246 partial directions only.

The collar begins with the trefoil (not cloverleaf as the rings are all the same size.) These are surrounded with an alternating ring and chain design in which the rings do NOT join. However, each dainty motif is joined to the following motif by one fragile picot. Tat sufficient motifs for desired size of collar.

Note: The remaining directions are my best guess.

Direct your attention now to the header of the collar which is the line of tatted chain closest to the neck. At the end of the row chain tat short stretch of about 10 ds. Begin the ring and chain repeat joining to every other picot of the header chain.

The next row is confusing. It might be all small rings which join to the picot of the chains of the row just completed. And they join to the rings of the initial motif. So possibly jk and regular rings.

When all that is done, a finishing row of decorative rings and chains make the outer edge of the piece.

1. Trefoil = R 2 ( - 2) x 9 clr dnrw leave no space. Repeat 2 x. Finish off and prepare sufficient motifs for collar joining by one picot as shown.
2. R 2 ( - 2 )x 5, clr rw.
CH 2 - 2 + (join into every other picot on trefoil) 2 - 2 + continue around.
Finish off and join new motifs by one picot as shown.
3. Header chain CH 4 - 4 for length needed.
At end of line tat about 10 ds to make the turn into the next row.
4. R 4 + (join to alternating picots of header chain) 4 clr rw.
CH 5 - 5 continue is same pattern to the end of the header chain.

Alternative A: 5. Attach thread to the base of ring of previous row and tat a Josephine ring.
JK of about 8 ds, close repeat rw.
R 4 + (join to the motifs as shown) 4. clr rw
*JK + join to picot of chain on previous row.
JK of about 8 ds, close repeat rw.
R 4 + (join to the motifs as shown) 4. clr rw. Repeat for length needed.

Alternative B: 5. Attach thread to base of ring of previous row and tat a cluny leaf, repeat.
R 4 + (join to the motifs as shown) 4. clr rw
* Cluny + join to picot of chain on previous row.
Cluny of about 8 ds, close repeat rw.
R 4 + (join to the motifs as shown) 4. clr rw. Repeat for length needed.

Alternative C:
Replace jk or cluny with half-closed rings.


6. Attach thread to header chain.
CH 3 - 3 dnrw
R 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 clr dnrw
*CH 3 - 3 + join to picot on collar adjacent.
CH 3 - 3 dnrw
R 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 clr dnrw
CH 3 - 3 + (join to middle picot of ring on motif) CH 3 - 3 dnrw
R 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 clr dnrw
* Repeat around joining as shown.
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2 previous The Young Englishwoman patterns
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Content copyright © 2018 by Georgia Seitz. All rights reserved.
This content was written by Georgia Seitz. If you wish to use this content in any manner, you need written permission. Contact Georgia Seitz for details.

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