Guest Author - Beverly L Elrod
Don’t throw away that one large needle whose mate broke/disappeared/was chewed up by your puppy. Instead, put it to use by working the Broomstick Lace on it.
You may wonder where the name broomstick lace came from. Here’s how the story goes. In the 19th century, an actual broomstick was used, along with a crochet hook, to create this beautiful lace.Other names applied to this beautiful lace is peacock eye crochet, witchcraft lace, lattice loop lace and jiffy lace. There are probably a few more names, but it’s most commonly known as the broomstick lace. The stitch is most commonly used for blankets and clothing.
To work the broomstick lace a beginning chain row is needed. To determine how many chains you must first determine what affect you want. If you want a heavier weight (warmer) object, you might want to do multiples of 3 for whatever width you want and include extra for your chains at the end(if you’re going to start the first row in the broomstick lace). If you desire a more open, lacy, lighter object, you may wish to use multiples of six or even more (plus extra for your chains at the end if your first row will be the broomstick lace). Sometimes the first row will be the broomstick lace. Personally, I prefer to start with a single crochet row to give my project a solid base. Whichever you choose, when you’re ready to start the broomstick lace, you’ll need to ch 3-5 (Depending on the size of broomstick/dowel/knitting needle you use. Your end chain should equal the size of height of the loops).
For example:
For a sample I’ll chain 20. Plus, I’m going to use a jumbo knitting needle by Lion Brand (size 50). So, I’ll chain an extra 4 (That’s how it works out for my tension since I crochet tightly). I’ll also chain 1 extra for a single stitch border on the other end. I’ll skip these first four chains and, using an appropriate size crochet hook (probably G, H, I or J), draw up a loop each of the remaining chains and transfer each loop onto my jumbo needle. One chain remains. In this stitch, work a trc to equal the height of the broomstick lace loops. This is accomplished by holding the hook near to the needle and wrapping the yarn around the hook twice. Insert the hook in this last stitch and finish the trc as usual. I should end with 20 loops on my needle. Chain 4 and turn.
If your next row will be single crochet, you’ll chain 1. If double, you’ll chain 3 (since I’m a tight crocheter, I chain 2). I can choose to work my pattern in multiples of either 4 or 5 because of the 20 loops on my needle. I’ll go with the four. So, {**I’ll slide 4 stitches close to the end of my needle. At this point, some people will pull these stitches off and hold them while working the single crochet or double crochet. I prefer to place my hook through all the loops from left to right and then slide them off the needle. This way they’re kept together and I don’t drop a stitch. Next, since I’m working with four loops, I’ll work 4 single crochets in the twisted loop that is made from the four loops**, repeat between *’s across, work trc in top of the beginning chain.
If your next row is to be the broomstick lace, you’ll now chain 4 and turn. Starting with the next stitch, draw up a loop in each stitch across, working a trc in the last stitch.}, repeat between { }until desired size.
For a varied look, you can use a different size needle periodically to place the loops on. Or, you might make a pattern in your lace by using 6 loops (with 6 single crochets when working them off). Once you’re comfortable with working the basic broomstick lace, try to change it up a bit and experiment with different variables.
Using the basic broomstick lace, make scarves, blankets and shawls. Once you’re comfortable with these, you can start patterns. Then, you’ll want to learn how to work the broomstick lace in round objects such as hats, mittens, no-seam skirts, etc.
But, above all else…have fun with it.
