One of the things that has often been asked in my painting classes when a project nears completion is what kind, if any, finish to use on it. Of course, the answer depends on what type of painting project we are doing. Since we address many types of mediums here, I will cover some of the ones I have most often taught.

First, decorative painting. I began as a decorative painter many, many years ago and in case you are not familiar with decorative painters, we will paint on anything that will sit still long enough, including the kids and grandkids. Of course, when painting on kid's faces, a finish is not desirable, even if it were possible ;-} !!

The most common surfaces for decorative painters are usually wood, tin and glass.

There are special paints for glass that are intended to be used for dishes and they do not require a finish over them, unless something new has hit the market lately. Just check the instructions when you purchase your glass paints. When I have painted on glass, I most often have done reverse glass painting with oils and no finish was needed. Another fun glass project is painting glass Christmas ornaments. But I digress! That will be for another day.

Finish for wood and tin projects is a must in my book. If you are doing a "fine" tole painting project - that is, painting on smooth wood such as a wood box or piece of furniture, you want a good finish for protection of the work and to bring out the color of the subject and the beauty of the wood. The same is true of painting on tin and it doesn't matter if you are painting with oils or acrylics.

For time considerations, I have often used several light spray coats before beginning with brush-on finishes. The foremost thing to remember is to be sure you are using finishes which are compatible with one another. If they are not compatible and are used together, they can ruin your work. I have had finished work crackle right before my eyes. Very little will bring tears faster. If you are not sure, try the products on a practice board first.

After two ir three brush-on coats, you should gently sand with a fine grit wet-or-dry sandpaper or sanding block used wet to remove any small imperfections. Follow this with a final brush-on coat and let it dry thoroughly. If you find a problem in the finish, repeat the sanding and give it another coat. Additional coats just add to the depth and beauty of your finished work.

Next, painting on rougher surfaces such as barn boards. This is one of my personal favorites and I feel these boards should always be sprayed with a clear acrylic sealer. You will see how the spray brings out the deep rich color of your work. I spray the front, back and edges, making sure the front gets at least two coats. (More detailed instructions on using spray finishes are in the next section.)

Lastly, let's consider canvas paintings. The same is true whether you are painting on canvas boards or stretched canvas. There are those who will disagree with me, but I maintain that a light finish over a canvas - whether painted in oil or acrylic - will help to preserve the colors and the surface for more years than if they are left without.

For this purpose, I just use a good quality clear acrylic spray. You should always work in an area with good ventilation and protect the entire area from overspray. Begin spraying with the nozzle aimed a little off the side of the canvas and go all the way across, ending with the nozzle a little off the other side. Repeat with slow, even strokes until you have sprayed the entire surface. This keeps the spray from puddling along the edges and gives a light, even coat to the entire surface. Let it dry completely before framing.

If you have any questions concerning this or any other articles on painting, please feel free to post your questions in our forum (link below) or email them to me. Thanks for stopping by!

Paula Devore
Painting Editor