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Bridal & Celebrity Make-Up Artist Dana Chasen
The pursuit of beauty through the use of cosmetics is as old as history itself. The methods may differ, but the aim has always been the same. The instinct to improve one’s appearance is in everyone. Most of us use make-up to cover up perceived or real flaws on our skin, dark circles under the eyes, unwanted shine, large pores, scars or freckles. If applied right make-up can make your skin look unblemished and healthy.
Make-up is meant to enhance your features-not bring negative attention to yourself or be so under done that it causes friends and family to worry about your health. There are some simple steps you can take in skin care basics and make-up application to acheive beautiful healthy looking skin. And to help us out with some helpful tips is Dana Chasen.
Dana Chasen, NYC Bridal and Celebrity Make-up Artist believes in educating her clients on how to achieve flawless, beautiful skin everyday and how to take care of their skin properly, especially if they wear make-up on a daily basis. Dana is also a veteran of bridal beauty and has worked with all types of brides including Robert Downey Jr’s wedding party, she also worked on fashion models.
Victoria: Dana, what should be done to prepare the facial skin for makeup application?
Dana: You want to make sure that you are applying makeup to clean skin, so your first step is washing your face. If you have oily skin, you may want to use a toner after cleansing to remove any excess oil from your face. Next, apply a moisturizer that is appropriate for your skin type. If you have oily skin you want to use an oil free moisturizer. If your skin is dry use a slightly heavier moisturizing cream. If the skin around your eyes is dry it is very important and effective to apply eye cream or gel to this area. By doing so you are smoothing the skin in this area which will prevent the make-up you apply from looking “cakey” and thick. Try using an eye cream if you have a tendency to get “puffy” looking eyes. If you have oily skin you may want to try an eye gel.
Victoria: How do you get makeup to last?
Dana: Certain product lines offer makeup primers. Applying primers is a very effective step in prepping skin for make-up application because primers block the skin's natural oils from mixing with the make-up, therefore leaving behind a more true and longer lasting color from the make-up. I highly recommend using an eye primer before applying eye make-up. Some primers also use light reflecting pigments that soften the appearance of fine lines and any other skin imperfections. I also highly recommend removing excess oils from skin with a toner prior to applying make-up. Exfoliating dead skin cells from the skin’s surface twice a week is also extremely effective in having make-up last on skin.
Victoria: What's the most important makeup necessary for "faking great skin"?
Dana: When trying to "fake great skin" it's important not to over use a product, such as foundation or concealer, in which case you'll be drawing more attention to your skin because it will look thick and cakey. The best skill to master is the use of concealer. Blemish concealers should be slightly drier in consistency, so that they stay on longer. However, when applying under eye concealer you want the consistency of the product to be creamer and ideally contain a light reflecting pigment. This will bounce light off of dark under eye circles and create a smoother look.
Victoria: How do you answer the concern to stop shine?
Dana: To prevent shine try prepping skin with an oil control gel. After applying foundation, use an oil-free formula if you're prone to shiny skin, you can use powder to absorb excess oil. I also recommend keeping blotting papers with you or a powder compact to touch up shiny areas through out the day or night. If you're using a powder compact make sure that you do not store your powder puff directly touching your powder. When you use the powder puff on your face you deposit oil on to the puff. When you place the puff back on top of the powder, the oil from your face gets on to your powder. Eventually the powder will be ineffective.
Victoria: What has been the most difficult skin problem you have had to deal with when applying make-up? And how were you able to correct the problem?
Dana: Concealing pimples is very difficult. It's important to have realistic expectations for concealing pimples and not to over use a product when trying to conceal blemishes, which can instead draw more attention to the area. First, if the blemish is swollen or red apply a cool compress to the area, or soak a q-tip in Visine and put it in the refrigerator until it's cold, then apply to the area to remove any redness and/or swelling. Next apply concealer containing a slightly dry consistency with a brush. This will help the product stay on longer. When dealing with pimples use a brush to alleviate pressure that would be caused by using your fingers. The oils of your skin can also further irritate the area. Depending on your skin, you may or may not want to also use foundation to even out skin. I always set concealer with powder. If the area is very red you can use a yellow tone powder to off set the redness.
Victoria: What would be the two things you would want your client to remember about skin care and make-up applications?
Dana: A very famous make up artist once taught me to look at my client, or myself, see the best features and then enhance them. Following on that theme, creating a natural look is all about enhancing what nature gave you. And that is exactly what I want my clients to remember when applying make-up.
The best way to create a natural look is to know what products are best for the individual depending on one's coloring and skin type. For example, if you have dry skin, you should use a moisturizing foundation. If you have oily skin, you would want a more matte formula or a water based foundation. If you have great skin, you might want to skip the foundations and only use concealer around your eyes and nose, as well as on blemishes.
Bronzer is great for creating a gorgeous, natural look, but you have to know how to use it. You should apply bronzer, using a soft haired brush, to the highest points of your face, where the sun would naturally hit your skin, these are: cheek bones, forehead/temples, bridge of your nose and lightly on your chin. Make sure you use a bronzer that is correct for your coloring; there are many different shades these days, warm tones, cool tones, etc.
Color choice and placement are also important when using blush. Since you are mimicking nature and enhancing your natural beauty, you want to pick a shade that is close to the color your cheeks turn when you "blush". For a natural looking application, start about two fingers width from your nose and apply the color to the "apple" of your cheek.
For lips, pick a gloss, stain, balm or sheer lipstick that is, again, close to the natural color of your lips. If you have a lot of pigment in your lips already, I love the look of just clear lip balm. Although I've made a few suggestions, it's hard to suggest particular colors, since the goal with creating a "natural" look is mimicking and enhancing what nature has already given you. This would mean the best products would differ from person to person depending on one's natural coloring.
Victoria, Dana, Thank you, we appreciate you taking time from your busy schedule at Glow Skin Spa to give us great helpful tips on skin care basic and makeup application.
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