This article is one of three that celebrate the beauty of his earrings. Each article in the series features photographs of the collection and explores the history of jewelry.
The History of Earrings – Late 19th Century to 1910
Earrings are worn worldwide in most cultures today, and have been a favorite decorative jewelry accessory throughout history. Universally loved for their
uncanny ability to enhance and draw attention to one's facial features (particularly the eyes), and hairstyle, earrings also add grace, charm, color, and pizzazz to any fashionable ensemble. Whether it's sparkling Swarovski crystals or semi-precious and precious gemstones embedded in lustrous gleaming Mexican silver or the finest gold, or chunky geometric cubes and glorious spheres of precious metals strung in dramatic dangling configurations, earrings definitely make one of the most significant statements of all jewelry.Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period 1880-1901
During the Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period there was a greater sense of social responsibility and an even more liberated woman emerged during the
1880's. Again, fashions changed and a desire for softer, more feminine colors in jewelry. Fancy colored sapphires became the stone of choice, in addition to peridot and spinel. Diamonds gained greater popularity due to their bright sparkle. In the 20th century, earrings with screw fittings became popular. A precursor to clip-on earrings, screw-fittings consisted of screwing a clamp against the ear lobe and precluded having to pierce the ears which some saw as rather barbaric.Edwardian Period 1901-1910
In 1901 Queen Victoria passed away and her son Edward became the King of England, hence the term 'Edwardian'. High society was in full swing and lavish
jewelry became the style. The heavy gold settings of the Victorian period were no longer in vogue leading to the use of platinum to create a lacy therefore delicate appearance. Edwardian designs were influenced by decorative motifs. A popular known influence was Marie Antoinette's jewelry, which featured an array of garlands, wreaths, bows, and tassels with an open work design of scalloped edges and millegrain work. Master craftsmen worked with diamonds and a combination of other gemstones such as emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. These jewel-encrusted creations were rich and sparkling as befit the era.Pearls were also popular and used frequently throughout this period in earrings and other jewelry.Art Nouveau Period 1890-1915
With the end of the nineteenth century, came great change. Jewelry was characterized as having a flowing theme of feminine figurines, stylized
flowers, scrolls, and insects in beautiful enamels. Natural forms of flora and fauna were popular such as the iris and dragonfly. Rene Jules Lalique led the French in Art Nouveau jewelry, while Louis Comfort Tiffany was the American jeweler best known for his designs. These graceful and expressive designs are now highly desirable as collector items.Arts and Crafts Movement 1894-1923
In this period jewelers rebelled against the mass production brought on by the Industrial Revolution of the late Victorian period. Craftsmanship and quality was key. Art guilds appeared and the 'Arts and Crafts Exhibition Society' was formed in 1888. Craftsmen used mainly uncut and cabochon stones in bright colors. There was an emphasis on simple functional designs with straight lines and angular forms.
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