Glossary D, E and F terms
Dead stone - this term is used for foil backed rhinestones which have lost their luster. Most often, it is caused by moisture that comes in contact with the foil backing damaging it. Dead stones can appear yellow or grey.
Dearest Ring - a sentimental ring with stones set in this order: Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, and Topaz. (All the first letters of the gems spell
Deep cut - a diamond or gemstone that is cut too deep will lose or leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less brilliance and value.
Demi-parure - refers to a smaller (2-3 pieces) matching set of jewelry; necklace & earrings, in addition sometimes a brooch or a pin. These are all of the same design and made to be worn together.
Depose - the French rights or patent granted for an exclusive design.
Diamond - the hardest known natural substance (crystallized carbon). Diamonds are mined and then cut and polished to reveal their true beauty.
Dispersion - the separation of white or compound light into its respective colors, as in the formation of a spectrum by a prism. This happens when light enters a diamond or gemstone and light is reflected by the stones facets. (Also known as fire)
Dress Clip - a clip which uses two thin prongs to attach to articles of clothing
Duette - are sets of jewelry made by the Coro, Trifari, and other companies. Each "Duette" has two clips which attach to a pin base; they can be worn as a single pin or as two clips.
Edwardian Period - reign of Edward VII of England from 1901-1910. Edwardian jewelry is characterized by “Light and airy designs” that have become the hallmark of "Belle Epoque" or the era of artistic and cultural refinement in a society, especially in France at the beginning of the 20th century
Emerald shape - A rectangular or square-shaped cut-cornered cut. A form of step cutting that is superior for diamonds and emeralds among other gemstones. This shape is used to enhance color or lack of color rather than brilliance.
Enamel - a paste or powder of various colors is applied to metal and then fired in an annealing oven so that the glass is baked on to the metal. Guilloche is an example.
En bosse ronde - is an enamel technique where the enamel is applied to rounded, or other, shapes in high relief.
Engraving - the process of making a design in a hard surface such as metal by cutting grooves into it.
Estate jewelry - a term that refers to jewelry which has been previously owned, not necessarily from an estate.
Fob - a Decorative ornament worn on a chain, and usually worn with a watch.
Facet - an angled, cut surface of a gemstone, rhinestone or diamond. The placement, angle and shape of each facet are carefully planned and executed to show the stone's inherent beauty, fire, color, and brilliance to the fullest advantage.
Fakelite - faux bakelite which is a modern, mass produced version that is neither true bakelite nor vintage.
Faux - a French word which means false or fake. Typically used when referencing materials made to look like the genuine article.
Fancy Cut -A diamond or gemstone cut other than round -- such as baguette, emerald, pear, marquise, square, oval, heart, etc.
Feather - A type of inclusion or flaw within a gemstone or diamond. It is described often as a small crack or fissure.
Filigree - delicate ornamental work of fine silver, gold, or other metal wires, esp. lacy jewelers' work of scrolls and arabesques.
Findings - jewelry components, such as eyepins, bails, clasps, etc.
Finish - describes the exterior of a gemstone or diamond. If it is well polished, it has a very good finish.
Fire - often a term used instead of "dispersion," it is the variety and intensity of rainbow colors seen when light is reflected from a diamond.
Florentine Finish - reduces the metal's reflectivity. It is accomplished by engraving parallel lines into the surface using a sharp tool, and then making more lines or curves at right angles (cross-hatching).
French Ivory - a plastic made to simulate ivory first produced around the middle of the 19th century.
French Jet - black jewelry designed to imitate fossilized coal. Made popular by Queen Victoria, Victorian women wore it as mourning Jewelry.
Freshwater pearl - this pearl is harvested from a freshwater mollusk - a mussel. The shape of freshwater pearls is similar to a grain of crisped rice cereal, rather than round, and they are less valuable than oyster pearls.
Fur clip - a clip which attaches to a fur stole with two thin prongs.
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