True lace is an openwork fabric made by using tatting, crocheting, or twisting, braiding or knotting thread. This is different than "cutwork" which is made by cutting fabric to complete the design from cloth that is already woven. The word lace comes from the Latin laqueus.
Development of true lace making began in Italy in the fifteenth century reaching its peak a hundred years later - Venice and Sicily led in lace making using a needle, and Genoa and Milan favored using bobbins.
Flat lace making came from Italy followed by raised motifs from France and Belgium (Flemish lace). Note: The northern - Flemish - part of Belgium speaks Dutch and the southern area speaks French. Geographically, Belgium lies north of France and south of Holland.
The dress in the photo was a costume designed by Léon Bakst for a Lady-in-Waiting in "The Sleeping Princess" ballet in 1921. The choreographer was Diaghilev for the Ballet Russes in Moscow, Russia.
This costume resides in the Victoria and Albert Museum / Theatre Museum in London. But, this photograph was taken by Stan Schaap in a special exhibition at the Groninger Museum, in the city of Groningen, The Netherlands, March 2005.
Ballets Russes productions in the early 20th century were costly with all the elaborate costuming, and "The Sleeping Princess" was one of the last of these extravagantly presented ballets.
Of course, not much of a dancer's body could be seen moving around, so this type of ornate costume was worn only by a dancer who did not have much action on stage.
We can see the beautiful true flat lace that forms the ruffles of the inner lower sleeves, and another variation of true flat lace gathered in a stand up pattern on the inner edge of the neckline. Since it was flat lace it may have been tatted with a needle or shuttle and influenced by designs or imported from Italy. Much painstaking care went into this costume and others like it with even the materials being hand dyed.
The lower edge of the bodice coming to a point in center front is finished with a raised lace pattern - French and Flemish origin or influence.
The true lace on the sleeves looks like an open tatted mesh that has been filled in with a design while retaining its flat finish.
References:
Groninger Museum Website - http://www.groningermuseum.nl
Book - Working for Diaghilev; edited by Sjeng Scheijen; published 2004 by Groninger Museum, The Netherlands.
This guest article was written by Susan Kramer, editor of the BellaOnline Doll Making Site.
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