The Jewelry Collecting site thanks Fay Cullen of FayCullen.com for the following overview of estate jewelry and photos of some wonderful examples of highly collectible estate rings:
Gold was the favorite metal for Estate Jewellery, whether as White Gold, Yellow Gold, Green Gold, Pink Gold or Red Gold, overtaking the supremacy of Estate Platinum Jewelry and diamonds still reined supreme in Estate Diamond Jewelry. The frugality of the 1940's was being overshadowed by the opulence of the 1950's.
Abstraction and surrealism achieved widespread popularity. An attempt was made to combine aesthetics and functionality and straight angular lines were abandoned in favor of rounded, aerodynamic surfaces. The USA led the way, closely followed by the Italians, who were original, innovative, functional and elegant. Bulgari, Cusi, Faraone and Settepasse were responsible for many outstanding creations and Valenza Po and Arezzo were centers for the mass production of Estate Jewlery, manufacturing latticework and gold mesh. Evening jewelry wear was characteristically platinum, palladium or white gold reserved for rich and opulent precious stone parures while day wear was gold tubular chains, corded wire and fringes discreetly set with precious stones. Several rows of graduated cultured pearls became the indispensable ornament of fashionable women and natural pearls started to rise in price again after falling with the invention of the cultured pearl in the 1920's.
Interesting combinations of ruby and turquoise, diamond and multicolored citrine, topaz and emerald were experimented with but coral and turquoise remained the favorite semi-precious stones. The favored decorative motifs were flowers and leaves while the exoticism of tropical flora particularly fascinated jewelery designers, animals became an acceptable subject for Estate Jewelry, in contrast to abstractedly inspired volutes, helixes, spirals and turban motifs.
Jewels of the 1950's lacked radical innovations in form and chromatic use of stones and their strength of designs were weaker than former years, but the style is characteristic of movement and lightness."
Aquamarine is a favorite among collectors of estate jewelry. Achieving a perfect balance between subtle and dramatic, aquamarine is a gemstone of
exceptional beauty and was used extensively during the estate period. This estate aquamarine ring with diamonds from Fay Cullen.com weighs 23.4g and measures 16mm wide and 13.5mm deep. Constructed in fine 18k white gold, this substantial estate ring is centered with a titanic 21.21ct prong-set emerald-cut aquamarine graded 'rich sky-blue' color and 'very good' clarity measuring 18.7mm by 15.45mm mounted within an extravagant boxy diamond-adorned pierced openwork setting. This garlanded cubic countenance is swathed in 2.71cts of bead-set full-cut diamonds graded G-I color and VS-SI clarity further flattering this fundamentally positioned assemblage of bejeweled luxury. Pierced openwork shoulder profiles centered with lightning-bolt zig-zags compliment the diaphanous openwork setting concluding this spectacular aquamarine ring with a curvaceous band and easily sizeable shank. Looking at this ring makes me a believer—all that glitters is indeed 18k gold, and baguette diamonds are the dazzling 'icing on the cake'! Big rings are my passion, and this exquisite ring fits the bill for me.
It weighs 23.4g and measures 18mm wide and 7mm deep. Constructed in fine 18k yellow gold this extravagant, multi-dimensional ring is centered with an intriguing bejeweled curvilinear row comprsing 0.78cts of channel-set full-cut diamonds graded H-J color and VS clarity. A flagrant row of absorbing baguette diamonds frames these fundamentally positioned gems from complimentary northern and southern boundaries collectively weighing 1.52cts graded G-J color and VS clarity. Dramatically reeded shoulders convert into a stylish spherical band concluding this striking estate ring with a sizeable shank and smooth undercarriage for comfortable if not flamboyant wear. Turquoise accented by diamonds is the epitome of earth and fire. The creamy luxurious blue of turqoise comes alive against the backdrop of glittering diamonds in this stunning estate ring.
This estate diamond turquoise ring in white gold weighs 13.7g and measures 22mm wide and 7mm deep. Constructed in fine 18k white gold, this inverted button ring is dynamically interwoven with recurring diamond-strewn strands forming a delightful web-leitmotiv that patterns absorbingly amidst a background of custom-cut 'powder-blue' turquoise. Enveloped in a noteworthy 1.10cts of bead-set full-cut diamonds graded H-J color and SI clarity, this flattering fruition of bejeweled luxury embellishes the masterfully crafted surfaces of this flamboyant estate ring mounted above a pierced openwork floral-inspired setting. A substantial, spherical white gold band concludes this inimitable diamond and turquoise ring, also featuring an easily sizeable shank and Native American-influenced pierced openwork silhouettes chased into the underside of this fine band. For thousands of years, many cultures have appreciated turquoise as a holy stone, good-luck-charm or fortuitous talisman. Famous for the striking blue that has made the name 'turquoise' synonomous with this and all similiar colors, even ancient Egyptian tombs contain artifacts mounted with this striking stone.
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