In addition to the five major groups of organic gems most often found in the jewelry marketplace, and studied by gemologists (pearls, amber, coral, ivory, and jet), many collectors find the following rarer organic materials of great interest. While some of these organics do not meet the durability criterion required to be called true 'gemstones', they certainly have historical interest and offer us a rather curious glimpse into the past.
Hair
Human hair as ornament—in jewelry? Believe it or not, human hair was extensively used for jewelry by the Americans and the Brits during the
Victorian period, circa 1850 - 1900. In fact, to borrow from our modern terminology, jewelry fashioned from human hair was 'hot'! While many people may find vintage human hair jewelry rather unpleasant at first sight, upon further study some find this strange wearable art quite fascinating and even become avid collectors.Often used in lockets and exchanged as gifts between young lovers, or worn as mementos of dear departed loved ones, human hair was also intricately woven into elaborate brooches that incorporated other jewelry materials like gold and enamel. Beautifully contrasting light/dark patterns were created with multi-strands of blonde hair and brunette hair.
Human hair was so popular during this period that books of patterns and weaving instructions for 'hair work' were produced, along with the looms and other implements required to create these future 'heirlooms'. It should be noted that elephant hair was also highly valued by the British colonials who used a single elephant hair in bracelets, necklaces, and rings.
Non-nacreous 'Pearls'
Lustrous and shining, with a porcelain-like surface, and produced in various shapes and colors—conch pearls, scallop pearls, melo melo snail, and giant baler pearls are exquisite organic gemstones produced by these mollusks. Not considered real pearls like those from oysters and mussels, these 'pearl' substances, technically known as calcareous concretions, lack nacre which is the combination of aragonite or calcite and conchiolin protein that coats the irritant-induced secretions of oysters and mussels.
Gem quality non-nacreous pearls such as these are rare collector's items and possess their own unique beauty. The rarest of them all are produced by the giant baler or melo melo snail whose finest specimens of marble and larger-sized pearls have been known to fetch tens of thousands of dollars.
Exotic Opercula
Sometimes called the Pacific Cats'eye Pearl, the South Seas snail, Turban Shell, produces a unique opercula—the operculum functions as a 'trap door' to protect the snail's soft body. Although other mollusks produce opercula, a calcified protein secretion, the Turban Shell opercula exhibits the eye-like marking of a cats'eye and an attractive cabochon-like shape that makes it alone among mollusks so very special for creating lovely exotic jewelry. Throughout many centuries, visitors to the South Seas, and sailors returning from there brought home jewelry and other trinkets made with opercula.
Insects as Jewelry?
Surprising, and perhaps even distasteful and creepy to some, insect jewelry holds a strange and wondrous fascination for many of us. Although I like my
insects alive, so I can observe their interesting comings and goings in my garden, many people throughout the years have been devoted collectors of insect jewelry, particularly the Victorians.From ancient times, the stylized form of the scarab beetle has been memorialized in faience, metal, and gemstone jewelry. During the period known as the Egyptian Revival, the actual beetle itself was a popular jewelry item. After being dried and possibly coated with a thin layer of lacquer, the insect was made into brooches, earrings, and pendants. Specimens were incredibly durable and though no longer crawling, nontheless a beautiful homage to the natural world.
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Article Resources: Artistic Colored Stones
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