Pave -- A type of setting where a number of small stones (either gemstones or rhinestones) are set together. Better pieces use a claw setting whereas less expensive pieces often have the stones glued in.

Pampilles - jewelry with a cascade of pendant stones that look like rain drops. It was very popular in Georgian jewelry.

Parure - This is a matching set of jewelry typically containing a brooch, necklace, earrings and a bracelet. Parures can be even larger. Part of a parure is called a demi or semi parure.

Patina - this term refers to the change in the surface layer of jewelry as a result of the aging process. Sterling silver and copper are particularly susceptible to developing a patina over time. Patinas can be created by using liver of sulfur on the metal and different durations will yield different colors.

Pavilion -- Bottom portion of the gemstone beneath the girdle to the culet.

Pear shape -- Term used to describe any gemstone whose girdle outline resembles a pear shape. Idyllically, faceted cut pear shape gemstones have 58 facets.

Pietra Dura - this is similar to Micromosaics, except that the piece is made of larger pieces of hard stone such as chalcedony, jasper, etc, in a background of black marble.

Pinchbeck - a substitute for gold invented by Christopher Pinchbeck in the 18th century, made from an alloy of copper and zinc

Planishing - a hammering process which is done so that the piece of metal has a smoother finish.

Plique a jour – this is the process of applying enamel where a metal backing is lacking.

Point -- Term meaning one-hundredth of a carat -- approximately the size of one-half a grain of sand.

Poison ring - a ring that has in the setting a small hinged box where one could hide a poison pill.

Poison Pendant - similar to above but worn on a chain.

Polish -- Indicates the care taken by the cutter in shaping and faceting the rough stone into a finished and polished gemstone.

Poor cut -- A poorly cut gemstone can be either cut too deep or too shallow. A deep or shallow cut gemstone will lose or leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less brilliance and value.

Posy Ring - a ring that has been engraved with a verse.

Pot Metal - a metal which does not have any gold, silver or platinum as a component. Sometimes referred to as white metal because of the finish.

Princess cut -- A square or sometimes rectangular-shaped modified brilliant-cut diamond.

Princess length - a single strand necklace which is 18" long.

Prong or claw setting -- The metal tip or bead that actually touches the stone and holds it into place. This setting usually consists of four or six claws that cradle the stone. Because this setting allows the maximum amount of light to enter a stone from all angles, it sometimes can make a gemstone appear larger and more brilliant than its actual weight. This setting can also hold larger gemstones more securely. In good rhinestone jewelry, prong settings are used over simply gluing the stone in place.

Proportion -- Proportion is the relationship between the angles of the facets of the crown and pavilion. The maximum amount of light is reflected off and out of a stone of proper proportion.

R.
Radiant cut -- A rectangular or square shaped gemstone with step-cut and scissor-cut on the crown, and a brilliant-cut on the pavilion.

Refraction -- The bending of light rays as they pass through a diamond or gemstone.

Regard Ring - The stones set in order are: ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond. When taking the first letter of each stone in order “R E G A R D” is spelled. Meant to signify friendship, it became very popular in the second half of the 19th century.

Repousse - in this process, sheet metal has designs hammered into the back of it with special punches which form raised designs.

Retro - this is a term for chunky jewelry from the 1940s which was often geometric in design. The term is also used for modern jewelry of this style.

Rhinestones - Original rhinestones were quartz stones or rock crystal found on the floor of the Rhine river. Swarovski is renowned for their high quality rhinestones.

Rhodium - often used for plating over other metals, particularly sterling, to give a tarnish free finish.

Rivire necklace - a choker type necklace with a continuous line of gemstones either of equal or graduated sizes of stones.

Rivoli Rhinestone - This is a type of rhinestone with a pointed end on both sides which makes it look somewhat saucer shaped.

Rolled Gold - gold plating which was popular in the early 19th century.

Rondelle - a piece of metal or gemstone which is pierced and then strung on beads in a necklace.

Rough -- Uncut diamonds or gemstones.

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