Guest Author - Glenwood Sherry
Note: Normally I do not recommend painting a kitchen plastic laminate top, due to the paint not being either heat or cut resistant; but, if you promise to always use a hot pad and a cutting board, then you will be just fine.
Materials:
-UMA white latex bonding primer (available at most retail paint stores)
-Benj. Moore’s #HC-40 AquaPearl latex paint
-Gold Leaf and Metallic Powder, Inc., #5480002 Extra Brilliant Copper powder (available through either Texas Art Supply, www.texasart.com, and Mister Art, www.misterart.com)
-Helmsman Semi-gloss Marine Grade Spar Varnish
-Whizz 4” mini-roller, medium velour nap
-paint trays, brush, 3M 1 ½” blue Long Mask masking tape
-100 grit sandpaper, rags, break-away blade knife
-mineral spirits, small plastic buckets
-several small sea sponges
Steps:
1. Mask off any surface that you do not want painted, such as walls, sink and cabinet surfaces.
2. Take your sandpaper, and scuff up the plastic laminate surface thoroughly. Take a damp rag, and clean the surfaces of all dust.
3. Pour some of the UMA into the paint tray, and using the Whizz mini-roller, apply the primer to all the counter surfaces, including the backsplash (if it is to be painted) and the edges. Any surfaces and corners that cannot be painted with the roller can be painted with the paint brush. Wash out the roller and brush with warm water and soap. Let the primer cure several days before proceeding. (Another Note: The secret to using primers is giving the primer a chance to “cure”, or harden, before coating. Until the primer cures, it will not have reached its maximum strength).
4. Pour some of the #HC-40 into the paint tray, and using the Whizz mini-roller and the brush, apply a coat to the whole surface. Let dry 2-3 hours, then recoat. (Here’s a great tip for you: It’s such a pain to have to keep washing out rollers and brushes, especially when you will be using them again shortly. Take your roller and/or brush, and drop them into a plastic bag, like what your newspaper comes in; twist the end so that there is no air, and the roller and brush will stay fresh for days, if not weeks. Just take them out of the bag and reuse). Wash out the roller and brush.
5. In one of the plastic containers, mix approx 1 heaping tablespoon of the copper powder with approx. 6 oz. of the spar varnish; you may have to add a splash of mineral spirits if the mixture seems a little thick. Pour some of the copper mixture into a tray, and use one of the small sea sponges to apply it. (Still another note: Sponges do not like anything with mineral spirits. Do not try to clean the sponge; you can’t. Throw the sucker out, and get another one. That’s why you have several.)
6. Using the sponge, apply the mixture in a tight, stippled pattern. The key to this finish is to overlap and work the copper into an even coating, with none of the #HC-40 showing through. Cover the entire surface, and let dry overnight.
7. Repeat steps #5 and #6, again making sure that the entire surface is covered. Let dry overnight.
8. Pour some of the spar varnish into the tray, and add approx. 10% mineral spirits. Using a fresh sponge, apply an even layer of varnish to the whole surface
9. After allowing the varnish to set up overnight, use your knife and carefully cut away the masking tape.
And don’t forget to use the hot pads and cutting boards.
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Glenwood Sherry
That Paint Guy
