The geographic variation in Mexico always amazes me. I recently drove a 4 day loop which took me through coastal areas, cloud forest, desert and pine covered mountains. This article, in two parts, retraces this trip, giving you suggestions of what to see and do along this 1000 mile route.

This is a circle trip so you can start anywhere along the route. My trip started in Jalapa following the highway leading to the Caribbean coast. The mountains above the port city of Veracruz are the center for the region’s famous bird friendly, shade grown coffee. The 4000 ft drop to sea level is gentle and the 1.5 hour drive, on a toll highway, takes you from a cloud forest through sugar cane fields, to the steamy lowlands where you become dwarfed by the huge groves of mango trees that droop with their clusters of this heavenly fruit. If you pass through the crossroad town of Cardel during the months of September and October you may see the sky darkened by the thousands of hawks that pass through this aerial valley on their annual migration. It is a spectacular sight that “hawkers” from all over the world come to observe. You follow highway 180 skirting north of Veracruz (where you could stop for a few days sightseeing) and drive up the coast passing though several villages along what is called the “Emerald Coast”. The main concentration of hotels seems to in the village of Nautla. The road is lined with stands overflowing with fresh picked seasonal fruit, bathing suits, embroidered sun dresses and tourist trinkets. For those who may be used to the pure white beaches of Florida or the western coast of Mexico, this beach area with its black sand may be a disappointment. Nevertheless, one night’s stay is pleasant, especially since hotels are not plentiful on this northern route. You will find it is pleasant to walk on the beach in the evening with the sea breeze enveloping you or linger over a delicious fresh seafood dinner.
The next point of interest up the road is the town of Poza Rica which is the entrance to the impressive ruins of Tajin. The ruins are in Papantla and are certainly worth a visit. This is also where you can see the Danza de los Voladores de Papantla (Dance of Papantla's flyers). This is a ritual performed by the Totonac Indians. Five men, each representing the five elements of the indigenous world climb atop a pole, one of them stays on the pole playing a flute and dancing while the remaining four descend the pole with a rope tied by one of their feet. The rope unwraps itself 13 times for each of the four flyers, symbolizing the 52 weeks of the year. It is worth seeing. The town of Papantla has been designated a “Pueblo Magico” mostly due to the nearby ruins. Depending on the weather and your interest, a visit to these ruins can take from an hour or two to a whole day.

About 2 hours from Poza Rica you come to the river town of Tuxpan. This town has always had an appeal for me. The main road fronts the water with a board walk on one side and the city buildings following the gentle curve of the waterfront. This is the home of Mexican Navy with its large base at the north end of the city where the board walk ends. It is possible to walk the entire length of the city on the park-like pedestrian path that lines the street. I usually stay at a hotel beyond the naval Base, whose name I cannot remember, but I always locate its yellow color. It is comprised of a series of separate cabins, has safe parking, a nice restaurant and pool. The grounds are expansive and you can sit and watch the river traffic. These factors combine to make the rather sparse rooms, loud air-conditioning and relatively high price bearable. There are also hotels in the city center but I never feel that the parking is as safe in the center as it is further out of town. I am also usually tired upon arrival and want peace and quiet which this hotel offers.

Between Tuxpam and Tampico there is almost nothing so you do not want to be caught late hoping to find a place to stay because you will be disappointed. Also be sure your tank is full of gas. When I leave Jalapa at 8:00 am I can make it (with only gas stops) to Tampico by late afternoon. On the far side of Tampico, past the airport (and actually in Alatmira) there is a Best Western, Los Jacales, where I usually stay. The price is reasonable and they have WiFi and protected parking. There is nothing “Mexican” about the hotel but neither will you have surprises. It is usually full by evening so a reservation might be useful. I have to say it is difficult to find if you are heading north but not at all difficult coming from the north!
Tampico is a petroleum and shipping city with not many tourist attractions that I can find.

An alternative route from Poza Rica which by-passes Tuxpam and follows a less mountainous route is to take #130 out of Poza Rica going through Alamo, and following signs back to 180 and Narajos. This road takes you though a furniture making area where everyone has their front room filled with classic furniture for sale. There are also picturesque stalls draped with exotic tropical fruit for sale which make your mouth water. By-passing Tuxpam saves a little bit of travel time.

From Tampico to the border the drive, for me, is boring. Gone are the huge mango and citrus groves, the gently rolling waves coming in from the sea, and the humid tropical feel that being coast side provides. Although this is the “coastal” route it is far enough inland that there is no longer any coast to be seen. This is cattle ranch country, with little vegetation, endless miles of driving and no gas stations! Beyond San Fernando you have a choice of heading west toward Matamoros (Brownsville) or north/east toward Reynosa (McAllen). The distance is the same but I usually head to McAllen since I am a fan of the Echo Hotel in Edinburg. That hotel has an interesting history: the name stands for Edinburg Community Hotel Organization. The hotel was originally started as a community project which eventually went bankrupt and for years (I guess) has been owned by a group of doctors. It is like an aging dowager… the staff is loyal and some have been there for years and years. The grounds are huge and adjoin a golf course. These days it is being swallowed up by the expansion of the town. It seems to be the place for wedding parties, community events, etc. It is very reasonably priced, including a full breakfast for only 1.99 and a free drink coupon at night. It is safe and removed from the problems experienced by the cities that truly sit on the border.

Of course, on this drive you may not leave Mexico, in which case, you will take the freeway toward Monterrey. And, in part two of this journey, I will describe the second part of our 1000 mile road trip.