Easter Egg Candles

Easter Egg Candles
Fun and decorative Easter egg candles are simple to make when you use a Jell-O Jigglers egg mold. Choose one color or many colors. Pastel or bright, layered or solid, these perfectly egg shaped candles will add a whimsical touch to your holiday decor.

You will need the Jell-O egg mold, which you can pick up at most grocery stores, especially around Easter. I often see these molds at thrift stores and garage sales as well. Of course, if you use these molds for candles, you will not want to use them for any type of food after that.

Since the mold is plastic, this will be a cold pour candle, meaning, you will not heat your mold and you will not pour your wax at a very hot temperature. As a result of the colder pour, the outer surface of your egg candle may be a little frosty instead of smooth which is perfectly okay for this project.

Please read all instructions before beginning this project.

Equipment and Supplies

• Jell-O egg mold(s)
• Paraffin Wax that is appropriate for use in making pillars or votives
• Thermometer
• Double Boiler (larger pan with an inch or two of water and a smaller can, pan or metal pouring pitcher in it)
• 6- Long and Smooth Metal Nails or Wires- long enough to touch the bottom of the egg mold and still stick out of the top. You should try to use a somewhat thick nail that will make a hole that is wide enough to push a wick through. You will insert these nails AFTER you have done any second pours but BEFORE your wax has cooled completely.
• Prepared wicking – Votive sized wicks are all you will need.
• Candle Dye(s)
• Tray or Pie Pan with edge that your mold will fit on (you will also use this to smooth and flatten your egg bottoms later)
• Mold Release or Cooking Spray
• 6 Small cans for each color you plan to make (if making more than one color)
• Fragrance Oil if Desired
• Small Plate or Egg Holder
• Mini Jelly Beans – Optional
• Glitter – Optional
• Small Funnels-you can make funnels out of parchment or freezer paper. Optional – see notes section


• Begin melting your wax in one larger can or pouring pitcher using your double boiler system. If you are going to make multiple colors and are using multiple smaller cans, you will want to get them warmed up before pouring your base wax into them so have a double boiler for them as well.
• Insert your thermometer and only bring your wax to 175 degrees F.
• While your wax is melting, spray the inside of each half of the mold with mold release (or cooking spray). Be sure to tightly snap shut each individual egg section.
• Place on a tray or pie pan to catch any possible leaks.
• Once your wax has reached the recommended heating temperature, add any dye you plan on using. If you are doing a variety of different colored eggs, pour at least 2 ounces of melted wax into each of your pre-warmed smaller cans and add the dyes for your desired colors. Each egg only holds 2 ounces so you won't need much. Start out with very small amounts of dye. Liquid dye will probably be pretty hard to control if you are making a small batch.
• Once you have reached your desired color, add your fragrance if you are using any. I am not using fragrance this time since it is such a small batch and just a novelty candle that I’ve created for looks, not smell.
• If you’ve decided to use small funnels, insert now.
• Begin pouring your wax into the small opening of the mold. I found during my second batch of egg candles, that the funnels were unnecessary and my cans poured just fine into the small opening, but it is up to you and your comfort level.
• Fill as full as you can without filling the spout or opening of the mold. You will most likely have to do a second pour, so you will have an opportunity to get your egg filled completely at that time. If you fill too far up the opening you get an air pocket during the initial cooling process. If you accidently do this, just make sure to tap the mold to release air, give it a poke with a skewer, tap again and you should be fine.
• If used, remove your funnels while cooling
• After 10 or 15 minutes, a well or dip will form. When you see this, reheat your wax(es) and pour a small final layer to ensure a complete egg shape. With the second pour, you don’t have to worry as much about the wax going into the opening a little. If you fill into the tube opening, that’s okay but it will make it a little more difficult to get the candle out of the mold. You will most likely need to do some trimming anyway
• WHILE THE CANDLE IS STILL WARM, insert your nail. Push down until the tip of your nail touches the bottom. Try to keep the nail straight and centered. If your nail tips over, you haven’t waited quite long enough so you should remove it and wait a couple of minutes before trying again. Or, you could prop the nails centered with chopsticks or something similar.
• Let cool completely but while it is cooling, give your nails a gentle spin once in a while to make sure it will release easily.
• Once all pours have cooled completely, pull out the nails.
• Place a folded towel on your work surface so you have a place to safely catch your eggs. Twist or press the candles from both sides until your eggs pop out onto the towel. If your mold’s opening was filled and the candle feels stuck, you may need to use the eraser side of a pencil to nudge it out.
• If necessary, carefully trim any excess that may have escaped on the edges or that formed at the opening with a paring knife.
• Using one of your nails, poke through any area at the top or bottom of the candle that does not have a wick hole going all the way through.
• Depending on the size of the nail you used, you may need to scrape the wick hole with the nail to get it a little larger to accommodate the diameter of your wick.
• Take a prepared votive wick and slide it in the wick hole. You could use a pre-tabbed wick but I found the bases to be a little large for this project. I just used wick without a tab or base.
• Place a small tray or pie pan over a pot of shallow simmering water. Warm the tray and rub the bottom of the candle until slightly flat and the wick has adhered.

• Let the bottom cool
• Trim the wick and you're done.

Notes: Wick tabs or sustainer bases are used to ensure a wick will not burn past a certain point. Since I do not plan on burning these candles for long periods of time, I’m not worried that my candle will burn all the way to the bottom. I plan to extinguish them shortly after dinner.

Funnels - The openings of the egg molds are not very big so you will need a steady hand while pouring. If you’d rather, you could make some simple freezer paper funnels to help. Just cut some freezer paper or parchment paper into three-inch squares. Shape like a funnel and tape or staple them into the appropriate size. Don’t make them too small or they’ll fall in and /or they won’t do you much good if they aren’t any bigger than the original hole.
If you are going to use the funnels, make them before you begin melting your wax so you are not distracted while your wax is on the heat!

Make sure your candles are not in a place where they could get bumped and tipped over, especially while burning.

Since this was a cold pour, where I didn’t heat the molds and I didn’t get my wax very hot, the candles will come out with a bit of a rustic or frosty look. I decided to cover up the flaws a little. I wiped of any excess oil and I brushed on a little Mod Podge and sprinkled iridescent glitter over them. Once the glue was dry, I put them on small plates and surrounded them with mini jellybeans at the base. My candles behaved like a small pillar candle so I did not need to put them in votive holders. Depending on the wax and wicks you use, you will want to test these before using in this manner.

You could do these egg candles with layers but you will have to pay close attention to your temperature. Layers cool faster and you don’t want your wax to get too cool or too hard or you won’t be able to get your nail in. Using only two colors (half and half) is an option and would be easier to control.

Now wasn't that eggciting?!?

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