It started with an urge to stretch our legs after two days of paddling down the Athabasca River from Jasper. We ferried our canoes across the river at the eastern boundary of Jasper National Park and scrambled up the short, steep slope above Brule Tunnel (on the CN railway line). Grassy slopes laden with signs of bighorn sheep and mountain goat led upwards to lichen-covered, limestone rock outcrops.

Upstream views of the Athabasca River valley were hazy in the heat of a mid-August day, but the Rockies rose out of the mid-summer haze in typical grey grandeur. Downstream and to the northeast, Brule Lake spread across the widening valley with mountains being replaced by rolling foothills and sandy dunes along the lake edge. The turquoise blue of the deepest part of the river channel was visible next to the shallow sandy rises in the lake. Horse bells tinkled at the base of the ridge, pulling our eyes to the five horses ranging in the pasture below.

The gentling climbing ridge begged exploration and we were pulled up along its length to near the summit when we found the first discovery – a deep, round sinkhole. Carved in the dark grey rock, the cavern descended straight down beyond our sight. Rocks tossed in tumbled for many seconds before the echo faded away.

Skirting the edge of gaping maw, we passed an old pack trail coming up from the east, dipped in and out of the national park along the cairned and signed boundary before following the well-beaten path heading slowly off the ridge to the west. A lush green babbling brook and waterfall heralded our approach to a sheer cliff and the stunning topside vista of Ogre Canyon – a narrow slot canyon carved out of limestone.

Discoveries this magnificent always make me want to know more. Further research once home filled in the missing gaps of knowledge about this amazing exploratory hike. Ogre Canyon is apparently a local’s favourite destination, usually accessed by driving and hiking (partway through a private horse lease) from the old coal-mining town of Brule. The deeply-carved canyon and sinkholes (apparently there are more below) were carved out by surface and underground streams.

If you go:
Our access was a ferry across the Athabasca River from Fiddle Creek at the eastern boundary of Jasper National Park and climb directly up slope on opposite river bank. Road/hiking access is done by taking Highway 40 north off Highway 16 (just west of Hinton, Alberta) for approximately two kilometres past the bridge over the Athabasca River. Turn left and followed the paved road (about 20 minutes) to Brule, continuing past the small hamlet onto a gravel/dirt road heading westward (for about 30 minutes) through unlocked gates to parking area. Hike up creek to canyon entrance.

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