It is interesting to see how growth happens. Sometimes it comes almost overnight. We wake up and realize that major changes occurred while we were asleep. More often, however, it creeps up on us and when we do recognize that things are different we are surprised since we did not see it happening.
I think that is what is taking place in Coatepec, Veracruz. The town was designated as a “Pueblo Magico” a year ago, a designation awarded by the federal Government to towns that have special historic or environmental importance. With that award, there has come a re-newed sense of civic pride. A feeling in town that we need to put our best foot forward. This is seen in the freshly painted facades and the newly planted garden areas, in the construction projects that are renovating older buildings, and the plethora of new shops opening around the central plaza. The town is gradually undergoing a transformation.

One promising effort is the emerging cultural center, El Sitio de los Milagros, which opened in a space that was formally used as a children’s party salon. The transformation, while not totally complete, is impressive. Against a backdrop of stark white walls and a stage and exhibition area defined by acoustic material El Sitio has sponsored in the few months since it opened: a musical event featuring the son jarocho group los Utreras, two exhibits by local artists Javier Moreno and Judith Jacobson, a ceramic exhibit with works by the world renowned ceramist Guatavo Perez, whose works are in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and an evening program of wine tasting featuring Mexican wines. The latter had a sell out crowd!

Other evidence of change can be seen in the opening of new restaurants catering to the growth of weekend tourists. One especially has caught my attention. Andaluz is a family run restaurant housed in a lovely patio area of one of the colonial homes on 5 de mayo Street. From the open door the peaceful garden area with tables scattered along the perimeter beckons you to enter. The food is mostly organically grown and breads and pasta homemade. As you sit at the table you get a sense of how it was to live behind the closed doors of these colonial homes. The tile, sculptured gardens, variety of plants and flowers, fountain and rooms all opening onto this central patio have been left as they were so there is an atmosphere of “shabby chic” which is very relaxing. I welcome and recommend this new addition to Coatepec.

Another restaurant which is not new but one that I have only recently been to is Casa del Campo. It sits on the old highway leading to Jalapa and the parking lot is always full. One Sunday I decided to head out there early for breakfast. The building is all wood and brick with wide pavers on the floors. There is ample dining inside but the best spot, in good weather, is on the back patio. The patio is shaded by tall trees and overlooks the river that runs by the restaurant. I found the service to be quite attentive, the coffee good, and the food better than most. This is the perfect spot to go for a leisurely breakfast.

It is nice to see how Coatepec has slowly begun to blossom. I hope that it continues to do so in a manner that attracts tourists but also in a way that preserves its small town charm.