Mexico is still filled with small villages where lovely arts and crafts are hand produced. It is always such a pleasure to seek them out, chat with the artisans and enjoy the uniqueness of the experience. One such village is San Miguel Aguasuelos which lies about 15 minutes from the well visited town of Naolinco in the mountains outside of Jalapa, Veracruz.

I led a small tour group to Naolinco last week, a colonial town known for its rich mole sauce and its leather goods. After a hearty lunch and a shopping spree we still had time left to do some exploring so we took off for this village known for its ceramic creations. This is not the colorful painted ceramic found in Puebla or Guanajuato. This ceramic is the natural earthenware produced in many homes throughout Mexico. It is true “folk-art,” that which represents everyday scenes and activities. A member of our group bought a nativity scene with 20 plus pieces including camels, elephants, goats, donkeys, sheep and several different kinds of angels. Interestingly, the baby Jesus was missing and a mad scramble ensued in finding a replacement! The whole set ended up costing $12usd.

Aguasuelos is small even by village standards. The streets were largely deserted, many homes dated back centuries with roofs that were collapsed and adobe walls exposed. Dogs roamed the streets weaving in and out of groups of children playing their games outside their homes. The village looked as if it had recently had the main street paved and there was electricity, something that many little towns are still waiting for. The houses were for the most part either old adobe homes or more modern cinder block ones. There was an elementary school in town and children in evidence.
It took some doing to find anyone to show us clay figures. There was a sort of cultural center with an exhibition (and sale) of clay pieces produced by the town folk. However, no one could find the key to let us in so we were invited, instead, to view earthenware made by the women who were standing around. There cannot be much income derived from the sale of natural clay pieces and yet that is what this town relies on. It is probably the case that many of the able bodied men head out to find work elsewhere and leave the women to make and bake the clay figures. For the most part these are natural clay figures, without painting, but with dark spots acquired doing the baking process. The clay came for the ground surrounding the houses.
We actually ended up going back to Naolinco to purchase a lovely, tall Catrina figure. A Catrina is the skeletal figure of women (and men) made popular by Guadalupe Posada and which now represent the Day of the Dead celebrations. This was a particularly lovely piece and will certainly grace the home of its owner and evoke memories of a pleasant day high in the mountains of Veracruz.