One of the largest Mardis Gras celebrations north of Rio takes place in the port city of Veracruz, Mexico. In Mexico it is known as Carnaval and the people of the city, called Jarochos, take this fun time before Lent very seriously.
Beginning every year nine days before Lent, Carnaval is exuberantly enjoyed with parades, floats, costumes, music, dancing, and all-night partying. The city of Veracruz virtually shuts down during the event as thousands of visitors from throughout Mexico descend on it to join the festivities. Visitors pack the streets and hotels, those without rooms live out of their cars. This event has been held every year in Veracruz since 1923.
The opening ceremony begins with the Quema del Mal Humor or The Burning of Bad Humor in which there's an enthusiastic pursuit, persecution and burning of the satanic personages identified as Mal Humor or bad mood. Once caught and tried, Mal Humor is buried so that all may sing and dance in the streets to infectious Caribbean/Spanish rhythms, fanciful costumes and masks. Thus begins a long wild party ending in the Grand Parade on Saturday night when the coronation of the Queen takes place. The Queen is Carnaval's most important personage. She then crowns El Rey Feo or the Ugly King three days before Lent.
There are four night parades which are spectacular. The visitor will be caught up in the lights, rhythms, water and crowd interaction almost to the point of surrealism. The most lavish parade occurs on the Sunday before Ash Wednesday and follows the route that winds along the Malecon or boardwalk. This is a parade of colors, dancing, music, costumes and fireworks.
Writer Bob Brooke has commented that, more than any other activity, visitors to Veracruz during Carnaval shouldn't miss the chance to dance at the zocalo alongside many other excellent Jarocho couples. Salsa, cumbia, reggae, and marimba are popular but Jarochos hold a special place in their hearts for the music and dance known as Danzón, which first arrived from Cuba in 1880. Danzon is a graceful almost ritualistic couples dance with a warmth and natural cadence that speaks volumes about Veracruzano culture. Lovers of dance have their day in Veracruz at Carnaval time. Dance groups from nearby villages don their peacock and pheasant-feathered headdresses in preparation for the dances they'll perform during the festivities. But the most exciting parts of the Carnaval are the costumed bailes tropicales groups who dance to salsa rhythms with such amazing grace and precision. Their wild but elegant costumes are a perfect complement to the joyful rhythmic dances they perform for enthusiastic crowds.
For those who love Mardis Gras celebrations, this is one not to be missed. Mark your calendar for next year!