Guest Author - Karen Blakeney

The chemise of the eighteen sixties was the most important part of a woman’s wardrobe.

The following is a list of the reasons of importance

1. Warmth. Homes of the period were drafty and many times damp. The idea of keeping the chest warm to ward off colds and pneumonia is still one that people believe in today. I personally have two antique chemises that were made of cotton flannel.

2. Cleanliness. Bathing at this time was not a daily routine. Since the chemise kept the body oils and perspiration off of the outer clothing the fabrics they would last longer. Also, most chemises were made of cotton or soft linens which could be washed in very hot water which helped to breakdown those body oils and salts. Many outer garments were made of silks and wools which were aired out and not washed as often, just as our sweaters are today.

3. Shaping the garments. The Chemise helped shape the lines of the outer garment. Acting much a the modern day slip helps the over all appearance of the modern day unlined garment so did the chemise

4. Eroticisms. While this was never discussed in polite company, I have read a few letters and personal diaries that discuss the chemise being made as a part of a wedding trousseau. I have a chemise in my personal collection that was used in someone’s trousseau. Every inch of the yoke and sleeve cuffs is daintily embroidered with silk thread and dainty pearls in a floral pattern.

5. Class distinction. Class distinction was very important at this time and it started from the skin out. The working class woman would have a chemise that would stand up to the hard work she did. The lower class and working woman’s chemise would be made of muslin type of cotton and probably did not have much embroidery on it. A wealthy lady who would not be creating as many body oils and salts would probably have worn chemises made from silk and tissue linens embellished with silk embroidery and mother of pearl beads and buttons.
This Chemise was typical of a utilitarian chemise. Notice that the sleeves are set in and the eyelet lace with ribbon inserted in the lace to adjust the neckline
This chemise has set in sleeves and a woven and embroidery yoke with gathers at the front. The Chemise did not change much over the decades but one change made it more comfortable Armholes were now cut and sleeves were set in. Necklines were now scoped and shaped to fit the shoulders, with gathers at the front and back. Occasionally they were set on a yoke with more lace and embroidery used on them. The length of the chemise was between the knee and calf.