Guest Author - Teresa Greene

The sizing of patterns has varied dramatically over the course of the past 75 years, and continues to vary today across the different pattern companies. There is also not as much correspondence between pattern sizes and the sizes of store-bought clothing (which also has varied over the years and from manufacturer to manufacturer) to use this as a realistic guide for choosing the correct size of pattern. A size 8, or even sometimes a size 6, in retail clothing may translate to a size 10 in a clothing pattern. Carefully taking one’s measurements and matching them to the measurements listed on the pattern is also unreliable as a means by which to ensure the final costume or garment will fit well. So the question becomes, how can one be sure the correct size pattern has been purchased, and that the resulting costume will fit as intended?

The last thing a person wants to do is pay hard-earned money for beautiful fabric for that special, one-of-a-kind costume, only to find out when the project is all done, that it’s too tight here, a little long over there, and in general, simply looks sloppy. One of the best ways to guard against this tragic scenario is to use a muslin.

A muslin is a shell of the critical fitted parts of the garment that is made from an inexpensive fabric, used to check for fit and indicate places where adjustments need to be made. Often times, the fabric known as “muslin” is used, hence the name of the fitting tool created from it. Muslin is a cotton fabric that comes in a variety of weights, usually unbleached, and that has a firm, fine weave. Because it is inexpensive, plain, and can be found in weights ranging from sheer to heavy, it is an ideal fabric to use as a test of the fit and cut of a desired costume. One should choose a weight that is most similar to the actual fabric that will be used for the final construction of the costume.

After making any adjustments needed to the pattern pieces themselves, the muslin should be cut and sewn according to the instructions, and the shell tried on to check fit. It is not necessary to do any finishing on the shell, such as setting in sleeves, attaching collars or facings, or putting in hems. Darts should be sewn as indicated, and the placement of buttons should be noted so that the shell can be pinned together appropriately and a check of fit made at that point. Usually, it is bodices and pants tops that are cut from muslin and sewn up for fit checking. For pants, it is not necessary to cut the full length of the pant leg; one need to cut only far enough down the leg to be sure when it is sewn together that there is enough ease through the buttocks and thighs, that the waistband is large enough to be comfortable, and that the length of the crotch is right. Any adjustments needed can be written with a marker right on the muslin shell itself and then transferred to the pattern pieces. Another muslin should be made up incorporating the adjustments, and the whole process repeated until the perfect fit is obtained. The shells can be saved for future reference if the pattern is going to be used again for the same person at a later date.

It does take a little extra time and effort to go through this fitting process, but the end result is well worth the extra work. By using a muslin, one can be sure that expensive fabric is not ruined or wasted on making a costume that does not fit, is uncomfortable to wear, and does not look good on the person. The result will be a beautifully constructed garment that fits well and garners the compliments and appreciation of the both the wearer and all those who see it.